Type: | Trad, 1600 ft (485 m), 10 pitches, Grade IV |
FA: | Ogden, Donahue, May 2003 |
Page Views: | 2,309 total · 20/month |
Shared By: | Jason Brown on Oct 27, 2014 · Updates |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
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Description
This is some of the best rock I've climbed in the canyon (having done 46 routes here)! The first 5 pitches have bullet hard, perfect pewter granite with some "no fall" R sections. Also in the first five are 2 peg R pitches that you CAN'T fall on! The first ascensionists gave this route .12-[5.9X obligitory]! but they are manageable run-outs on "good" peg, if you can believe that.
The crux is actually a short 10' section on the second to last pitch protected by 2 pins.
The only bad pitch is the last as it is just an exit pitch of easy choss and can easily be simul-ed to speed up getting to the beer.
I would recommend this route to any seasoned long route climber who knows they WILL NOT fall on .9+/.10- terrain!
The crux is actually a short 10' section on the second to last pitch protected by 2 pins.
The only bad pitch is the last as it is just an exit pitch of easy choss and can easily be simul-ed to speed up getting to the beer.
I would recommend this route to any seasoned long route climber who knows they WILL NOT fall on .9+/.10- terrain!
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