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Weeny Roofs, The 
Young William 

Chavez/Mosher 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: John Chavez & Rick Mosher (late 70s)
Page Views: 293
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Aug 19, 2009
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Description 

Same start as Scrub Job. Climb up to a large hole, and clip the bolt above the right-hand side of the hole. Exit the hole on the right and follow a shallow trough that angles slightly right as it ascends the wall.

It is possible to use the trough for hand holds, doing a psuedo-lieback to the right. There are just enough edges among the lichen to the right of the trough for your feet.

The difficulties continue well above the bolt. A fall near the top of the trough would deposit you very painfully in the gully. As the trough ends, follow good edges straight up to a bolt. Then traverse horizontally to the right to a third bolt. Climb straight to the top from here.


Location 

Starts from the Oak Tree that grows out of a crack in the descent gully (level with the top of the first pitch of Face Lift)


Protection 

3 bolts, very runout to the second bolt.

Belay from a large oak tree set back 10 feet from the top of the route.



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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Aug 19, 2009

I made the very unfortunate mistake of climbing this route while thinking that I was climbing Scrub Job. The runout above the first bolt is very, very scary.

To my surprise, the route did not feel as hard to me as the "5.10b/c" claimed in the Edwards Guidebook. I thought perhaps 5.10a...or old-school 5.9+.

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Apr 9, 2010

Call it R or PG-13, it's still groundfall.

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 11, 2010

This route deserves an "R" rating, no question about it. When you climb twenty feet past a bolt on insecure terrain, and a ledge awaits you below, I believe the word is RUNOUT. I wouldn't call it an absolute horror-show, but this route definitely vaunts the bold, traditional ethic of San Ysidro. Consider this a 5.10 for solid 5.11 leaders.