Chatters  5.9+ PG13

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.9+ [details] FA:  Bob Robertson, Bob D'Antonio, and Larry Kledzik, Fall of 1982. Submitted By:  mountainmicah83 on Nov 3, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Micah on the run to the anchors, finishing my lead...

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Seasonal falcon nesting closures MORE INFO >>> The East Face of North Gateway is closed to climbers every year from around Feb 1 until early August, depending on when the birds fledge. It's not posted out there, but since the closure has been in effect for 20+ years it is incumbent on climbers to know about closures by stopping in at the visitor center and asking. The falcons always nest in a big pothole above the traverse ledge and below the Kissing Camels arch. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

After securing your belayer to the second large eyebolt on Tourist Gully, begin the climb up thin, hollow, flaky, Garden-type slab climbing to a small bulge near the second piton. From there, you can progress over the bulge straight through or do a funky right layback. A few more 5.9 moves will get you to the last bolt before a scary runout left traverse to the anchors. Don't be scared.... It's not as bad as it sounds (as long as you don't fall).

Location 

Off of the Tourist Gully, this is the first route to the left of Skip It or Clip it, which is the obvious line of pitons every few feet.

Protection 

A handful of QDs is all you need for the 6 drilled pins. There is a fixed anchor at the top that is in good shape for Garden standards.

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Micah at the crux.

Bruce above the crux.