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The Watchman
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Chastity Crack T 
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Chastity Crack 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Bryan Bird and Dave Jones 4/10/2007
Season: All Year
Page Views: 406
Submitted By: Danger-Russ Gordon on Mar 11, 2013

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This is the hand crack at the end of pitch 3 looki...

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Description 

This is an excellent 3 pitch route, that does not see much traffic mostly due to the 60-90 minute approach, if it were on the road side, it would be classic. It is on the north side of the watchman tower feature.

Pitch 1: (5.9) Start in a straight in hand crack 50 on the left side of a 50 foot tower to a stance to a belay stance. (no bolts top of pitch 1)

Pitch 2: (5.9+) Left facing hand crack to a roof with good face holds, to a short arete and to a bolted belay stance.

Pitch 3: (5.11) starts as splitter straight in fingers on two cracks, then that turns into hands and its a little steeper through the last section, end in a bolted belay.

Descent: Rap the route 2 60M ropes

Protection 

3-4 each .5-4"
1 5"
2 60M ropes


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By Nate Watkins
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
May 12, 2014

I didn't think that the approach was as long or as bad as some of the other long approaches in Zion. The best way we found to get to the crack was to go straight back to the buss terminal behind the visitors center. There's a bridge crossing an old river bed. Hop down into the river bed and follow that for about a mile. when the river bed starts to to climb up a bit scramble over the big boulders for about a 50 yards. You should see the climb straight to your right. Then start bush whacking your way up the hill. There's one or two really good animal trails to follow on there.

This climb was way fun and I recommend it for sure. First pitch is good. Second pitch was super fun and enjoyable with good face holds and jams. The third pitch was great fingers and has it's own little spiciness awaiting you.