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> Burney Limeston…
> Opposite Main Wall
Chastity Belt
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3 from 30 votes
Type: | Sport, TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | Paul Bernard & Addison Cory |
Page Views: | 1,835 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | Steve W on May 30, 2014 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Private Property
Details
Burney Limestone is technically on private property that is owned by Bear Gulch Quarry. There have been access concerns in the past between climbers and the landowners, although it has been many years. Please respect the area, keep a low profile, and leave it cleaner than you found it.
Description
This route is located directly opposite of Spread Eagle. It is near the entrance to the cave routes, located on the left side pillar.
This route was a TR route for many years, but was difficult to access. It was bolted and led in 2012 with expansion bolts in poor quality limestone, giving it a bad reputation as dirty and dangerous. After two solid seasons with minimal rain and heavy use from the locals, it has cleaned up quite nice and now it has new glue ins to make it that much more safe.
Start on the right side arete and trend toward the left to reach the large owl hole, then go straight up for a more challenging climb. You can cheat around the left side arĂȘte to the anchors if you start to sketch for a .10a finish . The direct adds a letter grade or two for a 5.10b/c
This route was a TR route for many years, but was difficult to access. It was bolted and led in 2012 with expansion bolts in poor quality limestone, giving it a bad reputation as dirty and dangerous. After two solid seasons with minimal rain and heavy use from the locals, it has cleaned up quite nice and now it has new glue ins to make it that much more safe.
Start on the right side arete and trend toward the left to reach the large owl hole, then go straight up for a more challenging climb. You can cheat around the left side arĂȘte to the anchors if you start to sketch for a .10a finish . The direct adds a letter grade or two for a 5.10b/c
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