Traverse out from over the chimney with small gear for about 8' till a move up lets you gain the crack system above. Partway up the crack divides; follow either crack for ~30' up to flakes and easier ground above. End at a ledge with a large pine.
Variation - 5.10 as per BrianWS: Alternately, this route can start direct, at around mid 5.10. Instead of traversing in above the 20' drop, start below. Some tough moves through positive holds will bring you a few feet left of the crack system.
Walk left along the reflector oven past Strawberry Fields and Report to Sickbay to a 20' drop between the main wall and a detached boulder. Start by traversing in above this drop.
To gain the alternate 5.10 start, scramble thru a notch about 30' back from the wall, behind the detached boulder and hike around to the bottom of the 20' drop.
Gear to 3". I had doubles, but bolder climbers could easily go with a lighter rack. There is a stout pine with a slings 10' left at the top. For a more in-line belay, build a gear anchor in the crack.
For the 5.10 variation, suggested to bring a few finger sized pieces in addition to the standard rack required for the rest of Chasm Crack..
Descent - From the tree, you can rap back to your start point with a little pushing/traversing to the right. A 60m should reach the ground straight down too, and you can hike back up to where you started.
|By Aaron James Parlier|
From: Boone, NC / Grayson, VA
Mar 25, 2013
Thanks for adding this! Sounds like an awesome route
Jan 19, 2014
Alternately, this route can start direct, at around mid 5.10. Instead of traversing in from the ledge to the left of Sickbay, hike all the way down to gain an additional 20-something feet of decent climbing. Some tough moves through positive holds will bring you a few feet left of the crack system.
Bring a few finger sized pieces in addition to the standard rack required for the rest of Chasm Crack..
From: Charlottesville, Virginia
Apr 8, 2014
Note also that shortly after starting the main part of the climb, the crack splits into 2: you can follow either system - so you have 2 climbs for the price of one...