This climb should probably be done in 2 pitches unless you do a direct start. P1: Climb the corner passing 1 bolt to reach the large ledge. Traverse right about 10-15 ft to reach the finger crack. This part of the climb is clean, but nothing to write home about, the second pitch is the business. P2: Climb the finger crack to a set of shuts. About 1/2 way up this crack, it gets harder, but only for about 10 ft. The majority of the climb is 5.10. The route climbs in a similar fashion to many of the NRG 11's, as there are bomber finger locks between reachy thin sections. This is a route you should not pass up if you are in the area and this is your grade. There are direct starts to reach the ledge: Nazz, Nazz (5.12c sport) or Gone With the Wind (5.12a trad).
Locate a large ledge about 20 ft off the ground, just before a large overhang if you are heading upstream.
The main crack protects primarily with small nuts. A few of the larger sized BD micronuts are helpful. Some small cams (aliens) are also helpful.
chasin' the wind-late fall 2011
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Oct 12, 2010
really good route. The fingerholds are almost too good to even call "locks," they're more solution pockets in the crack that you can really dig into and not let go. They also make great nut placements; I think I only placed maybe three cams the whole way.
The first pitch, though only 5.9, is a bit heady and dirty. Gear for its traverse included 1 and .4 camalots. The new guidebook recommends Chasin the Wind as a good post-rainstorm climb, since the second pitch is so exposed that it drys really quickly. However, the first pitch stays wet much longer; this shouldn't be much of a problem for 5.11 leaders, but is good to know.
|By Jon Clark|
From: Philadelphia, PA
Apr 30, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
At the risk of blasphemy, I think this route is even better than Leave It To Jesus.
|By Ed Wade|
From: Hermann, MO
Aug 19, 2012
The 2nd pitch of this route in my opinion is better than Leave it to Jesus. More of a crack climb. Try rapping in, like Air, inorder to avoid the 1st pitch.