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 ADVANCED
West Gully
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Charon's Boat S 
Dragon Direct T 
Knight of Swords S 
Merlin's Enigma S 
Sorcerer's Apprentice S 

Charon's Boat 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Pebby Johns, 2005
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 894
Submitted By: Richard Rossiter on Aug 7, 2005

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Description 

Hike to the Wall of the Goddess on the Third Tier of Avalon. Continue around to the east and descend slightly to a gully full of boulders. Identify two obvious dihedrals capped by a roof. The route ascends the right side of the arete just right of the right dihedral, about 30 feet right of Mystery Ship.

Climb straight up past two bolts, then finger traverse left (very cool). Stretch up and clip the third bolt, then work straight up to a tiny stance with a 2-bolt anchor. Lower off.


Protection 

3 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor plus optional gear up to 1 inch.



Photos of Charon's Boat Slideshow Add Photo
Charon's Boat starts on the face right of Merlin's Enigma.  You can place pro in the horizontal finger crack between the second and third bolts before committing to the finger traverse left.   <br /> <br />The third clip is a stretch, and could be difficult for shorter climbers.
BETA PHOTO: Charon's Boat starts on the face right of Merlin's...
Jen Yuen starting the finger traverse on Charon's Boat.
Jen Yuen starting the finger traverse on Charon's ...
At the second bolt.
At the second bolt.
Comments on Charon's Boat Add Comment
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By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 12, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

A short but fun route which seemed harder than the typical Avalon 5.9. The finger traverse between the second and third bolts is airy and it's a stretch to reach the third bolt. This clip could be hard for shorter climbers; maybe this bolt should have been placed 6" to 1' lower.

If the third clip seems too committing, it's possible to place pro (small cam) in the horizontal finger crack before clipping the third bolt on this route; see photo.

By brent pohlmann
From: San Francisco, CA
Sep 11, 2005

Seemed a bit stiff for "Boulder-Canyon 5.9."

By Ben Cassedy
From: Denver, CO
Aug 12, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Pretty good. Would be more stars except it's so short. Airy traverse.