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Charlotte's Web Area
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Charlotte's Web 

Hueco: V3 Font: 6A

   
Type:  Boulder, 20'
Consensus:  Hueco: V3 Font: 6A [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 2,076
Submitted By: JSlack on Nov 16, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (46)
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Jake on Charlotte

Description 

Start with the left hand on a good side-pull crimp and the right on a mediocre crimp. After the first ten feet or so the grade drops to VB-.


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Photos of Charlotte's Web Slideshow Add Photo
Manny Varjak starting up 'Charlotte's Web'.
Manny Varjak starting up 'Charlotte's Web'.
Charlotte's Web starts using crimps near head-level, goes up and a little bit right over the bulge, then up the easy slab.
BETA PHOTO: Charlotte's Web starts using crimps near head-leve...
Manny hits the slopers on one of the finest moderates in town.
Manny hits the slopers on one of the finest modera...
Slopes
Slopes
Comments on Charlotte's Web Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Aug 24, 2011

I heard that the line used to be a bit more direct on the right side rather than starting on the left sidepull, but then a hold broke so the start moved to the left. It can still be done starting from the high crimps and moving straight up. Maybe a bit harder (V4? CW gets V4 in Edwards guide), but a fun variation nonetheless.

By Trevor V.
From: Santa Barbara, Ca
Nov 10, 2011

Yeah Ed's says V4 but after trying it out today it is definitely V3 or easier. Seems like Yeti gives people a lot more trouble for the grade?

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Nov 14, 2011

Perhaps easier than V4. But keep in mind that everyone has a different style. Charlotte's Web demands some balance and reach that doesn't come naturally to some folks. I propose V3/4, with a caveat of subjectivity.

By Tom Shank
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Oct 9, 2012

How about an even V3+ if such a thing were to exist? It gets the caveat label on my menu.

By Alan Zhan
From: Seattle, WA
Jan 21, 2014

There seems to be many ways to do this one. Tried 3 ways to do it today.

One goes directly up from the two high crimps right of the right sidepull crimp (original way? crimpy), another goes up on the two opposing sidepulls and goes right (this is the way I've seen it done the most) with left hand on the sloper, and the last way I tried goes up on the same two opposing sidepulls, but instead of going right it goes directly up to a lefthand crimp sidepull thing so that your right hand ends up on the sloper. They all seem to be around the same difficulty, but I like the last way the most.

Aptly named problem

By Matt Schreiner
Apr 12, 2014

Great line, one of my favorites in the Brickyard. As Alan Zhan mentions, the variation that mostly stays left and ends up with right hand on the sloper (see Bob Banks photo of Manny Varjak here) is my favorite. Fancy footwork to a tenuous high step lets you match the sloper and bust out a burly mantel straight off of it. If the original beta (or at least the main way its done currently, going left hand to sloper and right out to the pinch rail) is V3, this variation feels like V4 to me.