This route starts 20 feet or so to the left of Neat. Begin with an obvious flake and work up and under the fallen pillar, continue working up and left. You will pop out on the left side of the pillar, a few feet of chimney gets you to the ledge. The anchor is two pitons and one bolt. Overall this route is fun and is a departure from the spillters that surround it. Good warm up or down.
Cams from .5" to 3"
BETA PHOTO: Heading into the darkness....
Cool chimney/flake start to Charlie's Pillar.
Charlie's Pillar is for chimney lovers.
|By Bryson Slothower|
Apr 28, 2005
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fun mini adventure!
Perhaps a bolt was added but when I did the route in March 05 there were only two drilled piton for an anchor.
|By Stefanie Van Wychen|
From: Golden, CO
May 3, 2005
We just did this climb in April 05, so they must have just recently added the bolt, which seems a lot more sturdy than the pitons........
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Oct 14, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
A fun, well protected chimney. (And yes, you will chimney some...) The exit is good fun transitioning from the chimney to sandy face holds.
|By Charlie S|
From: Ogden, UT
May 27, 2013
Misled by the guidebook, I took the offwidth start as opposed to the flake start. Does this have its own first ascent? It was good with fun chimneying and a full-on body jam near where the flake and larger crack meet up. Would suggest 5.9+ish for the "direct" start.
|By Wes P|
Apr 20, 2014
Thanks for adding the anchor bolts- definitely more reassuring than the crusty old pitons up there. However, some cracks seem to be forming around the upper bolt. It probably should be monitored in the upcoming years and potentially retired.