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 ADVANCED
Acid Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Charley Don't Surf T 
Divine Ms M., The T,S 
Four Eyes T 
Sandinista T 
Scary Monsters T 
Unknown between Divine Miss M & Erotic Plants S 

Charley Don't Surf 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA:  Leonard Coyne and Ed Russell? Steve Spaar and David Kozak, 1970s?
Page Views: 2,445
Submitted By: Derek Lawrence on May 27, 2002

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BETA PHOTO: view from a step back

Description 

Once the walkoff from the top of Helen's Dome is reached (see area description), head southeast towards Acid Rock and scramble up and left around a large rock with a brand new bolted slab which looks to be all of 5.4. Follow a faint trail which trends right, around 2 more gigantic boulders to the base of Acid Rock. A tunnel leads down and left to the base of Charley and the Divine Ms. M.

Charley Don't Surf follows the immaculate finger crack up and left for 150'. Perfect finger locks and a hand jam or two bring you to the crux not far from the anchors. The thin-crack crux felt more like face climbing than crack climbing as you can't get a good lock till it's over. Continue to the top on 5.7 (looks like more larger cams needed) or rap the 1st pitch with double ropes (we rappelled).


Protection 

Stoppers with emphasis on small/med sizes, TCUs and #2 Camalot or equivalent.



Photos of Charley Don't Surf Slideshow Add Photo
Base of Route
BETA PHOTO: Base of Route
Second pitch of Charley Don't Surf.
Second pitch of Charley Don't Surf.
Starting up Charley Don't Surf.
Starting up Charley Don't Surf.
Charley Don't Surf. <br />Photo by MP contributor, <br />Matt Juth.
BETA PHOTO: Charley Don't Surf.
Photo by MP contributor,
Matt ...
Start of third pitch of Charley Don't Surf. Pitch is about 50 meters to the summit.
Start of third pitch of Charley Don't Surf. Pitch ...
Charley Don't Surf.
BETA PHOTO: Charley Don't Surf.
Top of the crack on Charley Don't Surf. We broke the first pitch into two in order to re-use gear.
Top of the crack on Charley Don't Surf. We broke t...
Second pitch of Charley Don't Surf, approximately 50 meters.
Second pitch of Charley Don't Surf, approximately ...
Brian about 10 feet below the crux.
Brian about 10 feet below the crux.
Comments on Charley Don't Surf Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tom Kelley
Jun 1, 2005
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

So who's the wing-nut who added a two-bolt station halfway up this fine pitch? Apparently this was done to allow rappeling the route with a single rope, but it's still in very bad taste.

By Derek Lawrence
From: Bailey
Jun 2, 2005
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

RE: The added anchors.That sucks to hear that someone did that. How close to the crack are they? If I recall, you could always swing/tension right to the anchors on The Divine Ms. M. if you wanted. Convenience anchors like this seem to keep springing up. Sounds like these would be a good candidate for removal/repair....

By Matt Juth
From: Evergreen
Jun 2, 2005

Are they just before the crux? If so, I guess it makes for a good pitch of easy finger crack now....

By Brian Weinstein
Sep 17, 2005
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

This route involves perfect rock, perfect gear, and a thought-provoking crux in a prime setting. Definitely one of the better finger cracks around.

By rob bauer
From: Golden, CO
May 8, 2006

I was on this route yesterday and didn't find any bolts on the pitch, just the anchors. (It's refreshing not to find bolts on a crack, but we rap'd after the 1st pitch.) Double set of wires helpful.

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 21, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Awesome route. 5.10+
Much of the crack is tips, with good locks in between. Slab foot technique helps considerably. Good gear when you need it. Double up on the stoppers. The move midway changing cracks is a kick in the pants. Final crux is insecure tips with foot smears. Several good rests to shake out the feeties.

You would be fine with nothing bigger than #1 Camalot. Offset Aliens are nice to have.

By David Kozak
Oct 14, 2011

Steve Spaar and I climbed the route in the late '70s and named it after the Clash song. We thought we had done the first ascent of this fun route.

By slim
Administrator
Oct 17, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Interesting, I had thought it was named after the Neil Young song.

By Shane Zentner
From: Colorado
Jul 1, 2012

Consider the first 130 feet of the first pitch to be 5.8 fingers, then, very quickly, the finger crack thins into tight tips and the angle goes from steep to vertical for the remaining 20 feet. Insecure smearing with thin but good pro. I followed this pitch and was challenged to the bitter end.