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Back Wall
Routes Sorted
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Aid line (aka: Stoney crack) 5.10. TR 
A-Frame Right TR 
Beehive Chimney TR 
Black's Crack TR 
Charles' Split TR 
Dart Lady TR 
Potholes TR 
Potholes Crack T,TR 
Potholes Traverse 
Vicious TR 
Walk the plank (2 variations) TR 
Wrath of Kahan, The TR 

Charles' Split 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  TR, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: David Potter Nov 15 2009
New Route: Yes
Season: all year
Page Views: 882
Submitted By: Tozankyaku on Nov 24, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: David Potter on Charles' Split working the crux

Description 

Just to the right of Potholes Crack on the Back Wall. Staying right of the crack on the face all the way up You start out on crimps and two backsteps five feet right of the crack, then climb up and left. . Gotta hook the tip of your thumb to step onto some crimps, then you move into the crux in which all of your weight is on just your left toe and your right hand with your right foot flagging so you're sideways (looks cool). After the crux you're in a rest position doing the splits (looks cool), then it's an under cling and two crimps to get over the bulge. It takes a very creative sequence.

David was thinking of Banana Split since you have to do the splits on the route, but to mark the occasion of Charles' Tozan's move to Florida in a few weeks, he went with "Charles Split."

Location 

Located on the back wall just right of Pothole's Crack on the face.

Protection 

Lead on 1 1/2 to 3 inch cams walk off the back side, or this can be Top Roped off the anchor on Potholes Crack.


Photos of Charles' Split Slideshow Add Photo
This is the line for Charles' Split it is about 8 feet left of an old climb called Dart (Dark) Lady that isn't climbed anymore
BETA PHOTO: This is the line for Charles' Split it is about 8 ...

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