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The last pitch of Charisma starts at the bolt anchor atop the second pitch of October Surprise and follows a line of eleven bolts up an obtuse corner to a 2-bolt lowering anchor. (The first pitch of Charisma is currently documented on MP.com as the first pitch of October Surprise).
The climbing is sustained, interesting and technical all the way up the route, with lots of 5.10 moves and several 5.11 cruxes. The hardest moves are at a bulge halfway up and at a technical stemming corner at the top of the pitch. The second bolt is very close to the third and may be skipped.
Lower from the top anchor, then do two rappels down October Surprise with a 60m rope to get back down. Angle the last rappel to the rappeller's right, toward the start of On Ballet. This leaves you on a small ledge 15' off the deck with an easy downclimb.
Great moves all the way up the pitch, but the experience is marred by crispy holds, friable rock, and lichen.
11 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
Bruno cranking one of the crux moves at the eighth...
Start of first pitch (also a fun alternate start t...
George uses great flexibility to stem the last bit...
|By Ivan Rezucha|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 15, 2005
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
I'm reposting this warning that I posted under October Surprise on 1/9/05:WARNING: The pillar left of the top 2 bolts moves. It looks like an integral part of the wall, but when Chuck stemmed against it, it shifted a couple of inches.
|By brent pohlmann|
From: San Francisco, CA
Nov 25, 2005
This is the filthiest route on Earth next to some obscure route on The Thing, and no amount of time will EVER get this thing to clean up. How does this route get two stars and Hike for Y2K gets one? If you want to have a nice time at Blob Rock, don't waste your time doing this thing. There are a ton of other routes that are much better.
|By Dana Ernst|
Nov 26, 2005
This is one of the worst climbs I've done in a while. If you do decide to do it, bring safety glasses to protect the eyes from lichen flakes. Also, brushing it on the way down might improve the climb for future ascents.
|By James R. Arnold|
Nov 19, 2007
Did this route with Joe Chorny yesterday. There is still some loose rock on i,t but it wasn't that bad. Perhaps it has cleaned up some in the last couple years. The key down low is to use the arete on the right. It deserves a star. 11a sport is about right mostly continuous 10 moves.
|By Zac Barr|
May 22, 2011
Icky and offensive. It looks like a bolt ladder: several hangers are spaced less than two feet apart. Man, c'mon. We don't need this.
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
Feb 1, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
The third pitch as described here seems to have cleaned up enough to make it reasonable and fun to climb. There is a left hand chip that flexes somewhere near where you reach out right to the rounded arete, maybe at 1/3 height. That feature out left of the last bolt shifts. It seems to be a detached bit of rock. Not wanting to harm my belayer, I left it alone. Be careful not to pry it outward with your left hand or foot.
|By George Bracksieck|
Feb 2, 2013
Led this on 1/31/13. I found it to be continuously challenging and interesting, with lots of stemming. Yes, it has more bolts than it needs; yet I clipped all.
May 18, 2013
You're getting old, George!
Nov 5, 2013
How big is the loose block, and is it avoidable?