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Charisma 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Dan Hare, Michelle Hale, Noel Childs, January 2004
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 905
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Nov 13, 2005
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Start of first pitch (also a fun alternate start t...
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  • Description 

    The last pitch of Charisma starts at the bolt anchor atop the second pitch of October Surprise and follows a line of eleven bolts up an obtuse corner to a 2-bolt lowering anchor. (The first pitch of Charisma is currently documented on MP.com as the first pitch of October Surprise).

    The climbing is sustained, interesting and technical all the way up the route, with lots of 5.10 moves and several 5.11 cruxes. The hardest moves are at a bulge halfway up and at a technical stemming corner at the top of the pitch. The second bolt is very close to the third and may be skipped.

    Lower from the top anchor, then do two rappels down October Surprise with a 60m rope to get back down. Angle the last rappel to the rappeller's right, toward the start of On Ballet. This leaves you on a small ledge 15' off the deck with an easy downclimb.

    Great moves all the way up the pitch, but the experience is marred by crispy holds, friable rock, and lichen.


    Protection 

    11 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.



    Photos of Charisma Slideshow Add Photo
    The last pitch of Charisma.  Start atop the second pitch of October Surprise and follow a line of 11 bolts up the obtuse corner. <br /> <br />Sustained technical climbing with great moves for the entire pitch.  Be careful of some crispy holds and friable rock. <br /> <br />Lower from the top, then do two rappels down October Surprise (with a 60m rope) to get back down.
    BETA PHOTO: The last pitch of Charisma. Start atop the second...
    Bruno cranking one of the crux moves at the eighth bolt.
    Bruno cranking one of the crux moves at the eighth...
    George uses great flexibility to stem the last bit.  That loose block is above and around left of the arete relative to his left foot.
    George uses great flexibility to stem the last bit...
    Comments on Charisma Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 30, 2013
    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Nov 15, 2005
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

    I'm reposting this warning that I posted under October Surprise on 1/9/05:WARNING: The pillar left of the top 2 bolts moves. It looks like an integral part of the wall, but when Chuck stemmed against it, it shifted a couple of inches.

    By brent pohlmann
    From: San Francisco, CA
    Nov 25, 2005

    This is the filthiest route on Earth next to some obscure route on The Thing, and no amount of time will EVER get this thing to clean up. How does this route get two stars and Hike for Y2K gets one? If you want to have a nice time at Blob Rock, don't waste your time doing this thing. There are a ton of other routes that are much better.

    By Dana Ernst
    Nov 26, 2005

    This is one of the worst climbs I've done in a while. If you do decide to do it, bring safety glasses to protect the eyes from lichen flakes. Also, brushing it on the way down might improve the climb for future ascents.

    By James R. Arnold
    Nov 19, 2007

    Did this route with Joe Chorny yesterday. There is still some loose rock on i,t but it wasn't that bad. Perhaps it has cleaned up some in the last couple years. The key down low is to use the arete on the right. It deserves a star. 11a sport is about right mostly continuous 10 moves.

    By Zac Barr
    May 22, 2011

    Icky and offensive. It looks like a bolt ladder: several hangers are spaced less than two feet apart. Man, c'mon. We don't need this.

    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Feb 1, 2013
    rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

    The third pitch as described here seems to have cleaned up enough to make it reasonable and fun to climb. There is a left hand chip that flexes somewhere near where you reach out right to the rounded arete, maybe at 1/3 height. That feature out left of the last bolt shifts. It seems to be a detached bit of rock. Not wanting to harm my belayer, I left it alone. Be careful not to pry it outward with your left hand or foot.

    By George Bracksieck
    Feb 2, 2013

    Led this on 1/31/13. I found it to be continuously challenging and interesting, with lots of stemming. Yes, it has more bolts than it needs; yet I clipped all.

    By ssp
    May 18, 2013

    You're getting old, George!

    By g.miller
    Nov 5, 2013

    How big is the loose block, and is it avoidable?

    By George Bracksieck
    Dec 29, 2013

    Yes, ssp, I'm old enough to take up golf, which could provide a solution to diminishing returns: handicap. Once you've hoarded over 63 years, which I had when I flashed this route, you get to clip all the bolts. (If not, you have to skip every other one.) And for every year past 60, you may increase the rating by a letter grade (5.6b becomes 5.6c). Another bennie: The more I climb, the more easily entertained I am (5.6b seems as challenging in 2013 as 5.6c was in 2012).

    What loose block? Oh yeah.... If I didn't have to use it, you won't. (If I can't remember touching it, that doesn't mean that I did.)

    By George Bracksieck
    Dec 29, 2013

    Or didn't.

    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Dec 30, 2013
    rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

    George, my recollection is you didn't touch that loose block. You did some great stemming as I recall.