Pitch 1: Cruxy face move at fourth bolt leads to super fun enduro climbing to anchors .11c
Pitch 2: Progressively harder face limbing leads to a boulder move to get established on tricky arete .12a.
Two pitches. Just left of center - Twin Towers.
Twin Towers, climbing on chariots of fire, 2 pitch...
Rusty and Alex on frist pitch of Chariots on Fire ...
Rusty and Jimmy Thornburg starting up pitch one .1...
From: Vacaville Ca.
Mar 2, 2013
Oh man, I'm so freakin bummed! I eyeballed this line and started working the first moves a few months ago but never went back to start cleaning and bolting. I got rained out the day I dropped a line down it. Now it sports bolts to the 100ft line almost exactly where I envisioned it would go.
I hope you all are going to work on the second pitch as well, strait through that dihedral thing up high.
Oh well, you snooze ya loose. Can't wait to climb it.
|By mike carville|
Mar 27, 2013
shoot - sorry about that. we figured folks must have been looking at it but due to years of closure figured it fell off the radar. it now has a second pitch .11d. up and left to a big blunt arete to chains. fun route - i think you'll like it!
From: Petaluma California
Apr 21, 2013
Another great route, but at the end of the day, I was wasted for the second pitch. It did feel a bit harder than the 12A out front. This one is still dirty too. Should clean up well with some traffic.
Got on this again, and took off another 50 pounds of rock before the arete. There is a good route in there someplace. Getting onto the arete is 11+ or 12 A.
|By 2nd favourite Englishman|
Apr 22, 2013
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Did the second pitch but not clean. I think it might be 11d if you know where to go but the arete is very devious and I was never sure if you should be left or right. Next time!
Great line and pretty wild to be 200 feet up a dead vertical cliff climbing a wild arete in our little local quarry. Nice work. Probably 12a to onsight I think?
|By mike carville|
Apr 26, 2013
probably so - it's hard to get on the arete and then tricky to stay on it.