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Chariots on Fire 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: mike carville / josh horniak
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 467
Submitted By: mike carville on Feb 16, 2013
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Rusty on frist pitch of Chariots on Fire .11c
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Description 

Pitch 1: Cruxy face move at fourth bolt leads to super fun enduro climbing to anchors .11c

Pitch 2: Progressively harder face limbing leads to a boulder move to get established on tricky arete .12a.


Location 

Two pitches. Just left of center - Twin Towers.


Protection 

bolts



Photos of Chariots on Fire Slideshow Add Photo
Twin Towers, climbing on chariots of fire, 2 pitch .11d
Twin Towers, climbing on chariots of fire, 2 pitch...
Rusty and Alex on frist pitch of Chariots on Fire .11c
Rusty and Alex on frist pitch of Chariots on Fire ...
Rusty and Jimmy Thornburg starting up pitch one .11c and pitch two .12a.
Rusty and Jimmy Thornburg starting up pitch one .1...
Comments on Chariots on Fire Add Comment
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By Salamanizer
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Mar 2, 2013

Oh man, I'm so freakin bummed! I eyeballed this line and started working the first moves a few months ago but never went back to start cleaning and bolting. I got rained out the day I dropped a line down it. Now it sports bolts to the 100ft line almost exactly where I envisioned it would go.

I hope you all are going to work on the second pitch as well, strait through that dihedral thing up high.

Oh well, you snooze ya loose. Can't wait to climb it.

By mike carville
Mar 27, 2013

shoot - sorry about that. we figured folks must have been looking at it but due to years of closure figured it fell off the radar. it now has a second pitch .11d. up and left to a big blunt arete to chains. fun route - i think you'll like it!

By stevecurtis
From: Petaluma California
Apr 21, 2013

Another great route, but at the end of the day, I was wasted for the second pitch. It did feel a bit harder than the 12A out front. This one is still dirty too. Should clean up well with some traffic.

Got on this again, and took off another 50 pounds of rock before the arete. There is a good route in there someplace. Getting onto the arete is 11+ or 12 A.

By 2nd favourite Englishman
Apr 22, 2013
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a

Did the second pitch but not clean. I think it might be 11d if you know where to go but the arete is very devious and I was never sure if you should be left or right. Next time!
Great line and pretty wild to be 200 feet up a dead vertical cliff climbing a wild arete in our little local quarry. Nice work. Probably 12a to onsight I think?

By mike carville
Apr 26, 2013

probably so - it's hard to get on the arete and then tricky to stay on it.