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Rappel Rock
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Baradur T 
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Black Magic Woman T 
Black Quacker T 
Charadras T 
Chiboni T 
Chicken Sh*t Sandwich T 
Corner, The T 
Helm's Deep T 
Lude T 
Not So Easy Arch T 
Other Way, The T 
Quick Death T 
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Storm Crow T 
Voodoo Child S 
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YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Rich Thompson, Gary Axen, Kem Johnson '74
Season: spring season closure
Page Views: 1,725
Submitted By: Orphaned on Jul 19, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1, starts on/above that feature in the botto...

  • Closed to climbing, March 15 - June 30 MORE INFO >>>
  • Closed to climbing, March 15-June 30 MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    20' Left of the obvious 3'-4' left arching corner (Rotissima Bueno) is a 20' ramp leading to a 20' crack/flake system. The route climbs this crack/flake then a series of ribs then connects into the Rotissima corner at about 65'. Continue up the corner then through some steep moves to stand atop a horn and a spicy move for short folks to a good hold. (although you can step left according to the guide book authors Steiger, EFR et al). Continue up to a ledge system 7' below a bush (belay to down to the right on ledge). A really good 5.7 adventure with traditional Mt Lemmon pro. See the pro section.

    There are no permanent anchors on the ledge and it requires 2 ropes to touch the ground. An easier escape is to trend left up a 5.5 crack to the giant "Orange Slice" corner then go left to easy ground and off. I would recommend the "Not So Easy Arch" finish as a better quality exit.


    60' left of Black Quacker, just left of Rotissima Bueno at Rap rock's base


    Stoppers, 9/16" shoulder slings, TCU's to 1.5", and camming units to 3". Save a #5 "wc rock" for the moves getting to the corner up high. The gear is solid and a leader should install TCU's both with 2 cams to left and 2 cams to right to see which orientation is most solid. Expect to do a move or two with gear at your feet.

    Comments on Charadras Add Comment
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    By adrian korosec
    From: tucson,az
    Oct 29, 2010

    I thought this route was stiff for the grade. Granted, did it off the couch, but it kept me on my toes.

    To be done as a first lead at the grade? I don't think so.
    By Alex McIntyre
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Aug 14, 2013

    This route is absolutely wild.
    By Andrew Megas-Russell
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Feb 11, 2015

    I agree with Adrian... I thought the gear placements were a little small/sparse (typical classic mt. lemmon style) and I would not recommend this as a first lead for any budding trad leader. Standard Route/ Black Quacker would be a much better option for a new leader because there is more pro readily available. Either way, Rappel Rock hosts some of the better quality granite on the mountain!
    By Karl Groll
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Jul 26, 2015

    Really fun and thoughtful. With a 70, you can lead all the way up to the start of the Orange Slice for one long (almost 200 ft!) pitch. 60 might work if the belayer started up the ramp? Save some hand size stuff for an anchor in the Slice.
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