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Tilted Pillars
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Another Notch in My Lipstick Case T 
Chapstick T 
Preying Mantle S 
Professor Pogue's Precarious Pinnacle S 
Ten Minutes of warmth T 
Three Guys and Heather T 

Chapstick 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 156
Submitted By: rivercat on Jun 4, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Chapstick

Description 

left most route on the wall. some loose rock. protects well with mostly finger sized pieces.

Protection 

bolted anchor hidden to the left of the boulder, or walk off.


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By Ethan Henderson
From: Silverdale, WA
Aug 18, 2012

A good beginner gear climb on solid rock/not a lot of hallow rock = good for newer leaders esp because lots of Frenchman Coulee/Echo Basin routes are full of bad rock which takes some practice finding the solid parts.

There is an awesome no hands rest every few feet which makes placing your protection very easy. Also a nice solo.

One could place a 4" piece near the top of the crack if you wanted to but I would bring cams to .75 or 1 camalot and maybe a couple medium wires.
By Lina Baker
May 6, 2013

FANTASTIC beginner trad-lead climb. Very straightforward moves, feels like a sport climb with pro.

Watch out for loose rock underfoot at the top.
By Lan Dogan
From: Seattle, WA
Apr 6, 2015

First trad lead. Fun to give it a shot. Anchors are the same as Another Notch In My Lipstick Case. Recommend using longer slings for anchors as they are tucked back; Then again the whole route has a decent amount of rope drag.
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