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Tilted Pillars
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Another Notch in My Lipstick Case T 
Chapstick T 
Preying Mantel S 

Chapstick 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 264
Submitted By: Morrismc on Feb 6, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Chapstick

Description 

guidebook: "a nice beginner's crack; take standard rack, ends at fairly new chain anchor"

All true, a really fun climb on the left side of the tilted pillars if you are below them looking up. Will try and get a picture the next time I am there.

Location 

Looking up at the tilted pills it is a crack on the left of the pillars. Just to the left of the trampled bush at the bottom of Another Notch in my Lipstick Case (5.7)

Protection 

I never would have found place for anything under 2" camalots. Nuts were helpful


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By Ethan Henderson
From: Silverdale, WA
Aug 18, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

A good beginner gear climb on solid rock/not a lot of hallow rock = good for newer leaders esp because lots of Frenchman Coulee/Echo Basin routes are full of bad rock which takes some practice finding the solid parts.

There is an awesome no hands rest every few feet which makes placing your protection very easy. Also a nice solo.

One could place a 4" piece near the top of the crack if you wanted to but I would bring cams to .75 or 1 camalot and maybe a couple medium wires.
By Lina Baker
May 6, 2013

FANTASTIC beginner trad-lead climb. Very straightforward moves, feels like a sport climb with pro.

Watch out for loose rock underfoot at the top.