Chaps My Hide 5.10d
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10d [details] |
| FA: | Chris Miller & Chuck Scott, May 2002 |
| Submitted By: | C Miller on Oct 26, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: The right side of the Claim Jumper Wall.
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Description Climb large, positive holds past two widely spaced bolts up and left to where the wall steepens slightly. Clip the third bolt and then power over a bulge on crimpy holds (crux) to reach better holds above. From here run up a slab to finish on a vertical face/arete and the anchors.
Enjoyable climbing for the most part with a bouldery, committing sequence at the crux.
Location Just right of Bye Chimney, an obvious wide crack.
Protection 6 bolts, sport anchors
| Comments on Chaps My Hide |
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By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
May 21, 2007
rating: 5.10c/d
| The crux felt harder than 10c albeit not sustained. |
By Kortopates
Aug 9, 2010
rating: 5.11a
| Great short route up through the crux, but can't imagine rating this 5.10c as found in the guide. The thin crimps at the crux to get over the steep bulge seem a like full letter grade more difficult than 11.a's in the area. I'd think 11.b is more fair. Perhaps some better edges broke off since the route went up? However, my wife, who got a beta flash didn't agree with my assesment entirely, but did feel it was harder than both of the 10.d's we flashed on the south face of the same formation and the popular adjacent route "Coyotes in the hen house". So I think I'd go with 11.a. Very fun short technical route either way. |
By Wes Goulding
From: Granada Hills, CA
Sep 5, 2010
| Fun route but painful! The crimps through the crux are small and sharp. My hand was feeling it for awhile. I kind of like that though. Makes me feel like I did something. Ha!
Well protected at the crux too. |
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jul 10, 2011
rating: 5.11a
| I wouldn't argue with 5.11a - felt harder than Coyotes to me. |
By Jeff Botimer
Jul 22, 2012
rating: 5.10d
| The last large hold before the crux (to the right of the third bolt) came off in my hand yesterday. There is still something there that might be used as a hold, but nothing like what used to be there. However, the hold was a little right and below the crux, I do not think missing it effects the crux at all. |
By John Dubya
Aug 12, 2012
rating: 5.11a/b
| Yep this is harder than 10c or the hardest for that grade at Holcomb. Super fun! |
By Nick Troy
Oct 15, 2012
rating: 5.11a
| A fun route, but I agree, that crimpy crux means it's more difficult than Coyotes.
11a seems about right. |
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