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Unsorted Routes:

Chaos 

Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+

   
Type: Boulder, 12'
Consensus:  Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: John Freaney
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,315
Submitted By: sweatpants on Nov 2, 2008
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Quincy is closed to climbing, Rattlesnake is open

Description 

Problem starts with a bomber ledge for feet off to the right of start hands. Thrutch out left to increasingly good crimps. From there head up to increasingly better holds to top out.


Location 

thru saddle. take a right and it is not far down on the right. It is apparently on the same wall and to the left of the 'project' i think. It is also just before the 'dicey' problems and also 'jump for joy'


Protection 

pad on ground and one on rock directly behind you.



Photos of Chaos Slideshow Add Photo
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The start
BETA PHOTO: The start
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first move, tiny crimp.
first move, tiny crimp.
bump
bump
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Comments on Chaos Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 10, 2012
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Nov 2, 2008

pics to come. i thought this was the project but i dont think it was... o well. lol.

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Nov 4, 2008

also, im not sure about the grade. is suited me as it was souldery and utilized a heel hook for several moves. It could be harder but i dont think it's easier. or it could just be the right grade but lets be honest... how often does that happen? haha

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Nov 17, 2008

Nice work Sweaty!- looks like a good, hard boulder problem. Cheers!

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Nov 17, 2008

Thanks bud! Now I just need some people to go up there to get on it to see how hard the thing actually is...

By Brian Runnells
Nov 17, 2008

Nice pics man!

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Nov 18, 2008

thank you sir. props to Lisa Versino for those! I can't remember how much work you gave it when you were there? Thoughts on how it felt at all? Id like to make it back up there at some point to do some more looking around for sure. really awsome area. Not to mention the dogs loved it.

By Brian Runnells
Dec 2, 2008

I couldn't get off the ground really. I'll have to try it fresher to have a better idea.

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Dec 3, 2008

its cause you're not manly enough to climb my problems... o wait you've climbed most all of them. haha.

By SteveSchultz
Mar 20, 2009

Very good problem John!!! Was really close to the send yesterday and it should go down next time i'm out there. Got all the moves worked out and now just need to put it together. Really cool, powerful crimping. I like it.

Cant comment too much about the grade right now as I haven't done it but it seems pretty solid at 7 points in my opinion. Who cares really, when the problem is so fun?

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Mar 21, 2009

That's great man, I'm glad you liked it! Did you explore at all or find anything new?

By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
May 7, 2009

Finally Freany has established a legitimate problem. This thing is hard! Good work sweaty. Thanks for the beta out there today.

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
May 7, 2009

I hate u. Thank u. And ur welcome.

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
May 30, 2010

congrats to eggnuts on the coveted and long awaited second ascent!!!!!! Well done sir.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
May 31, 2010
rating: V7 7A+

Yes! Thanks Sweaty, nice eye on this line and on Jump For Joy. Matt and I both agreed Jump for Joy would be classic at any area.

Getting off the ground and to the crimps out left on Chaos was the crux, very hard moves, solid/hard V7 IMO. I fell off up higher once for inexplicable reasons; you can imagine the cursing that ensued. Fortunately it went the next go or I would have had to quit climbing permanently.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Jun 1, 2010

Nice Chris!

By Skyler F.
From: La Crosse, WI
Jan 12, 2012

I'm sad to inform that part of the starting hold has broken. It was the right hand thumb catch. Although there is a small piece of it remaining, I believe it makes the pinch a bit harder to grasp. As I was unable to even get my ass off the ground, someone else will have to determine if the grade of the problem should be raised.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jan 13, 2012
rating: V7 7A+

Skyler I have 2 thoughts about this.

1) You and Jeremy need to go to weight watchers before climbing any more classic Wisconsin boulder problems.

2) Thanks for cleaning up the problem and making it harder. We need more hard problems around here.

However, the true Wisconsin way of dealing with this would be to stay silent, then laugh to yourself over the next several years when people loudly complain that this problem is a sandbag.

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Jan 16, 2012

Bummer!

By Rock Warrior Films
Aug 9, 2012

A bit harder to pull of the ground but not too much.

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Aug 10, 2012

not sure I understand homie... doesn't everyone start this as a sit start?

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Aug 10, 2012
rating: V7 7A+

Sweaty, yes, everyone sit starts, but I think Ian is saying that the broken start hold (see Skyler's comment above) only made it a touch harder.

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Aug 10, 2012

ahh. I see.