Chaos starts standing with both hands on a badly sloping shelf. Alternatively, one can start even lower, again with hands on slopers, to add a move or two. From the shelf, move a bit to the left, using crimps to move upwards. The crux move comes when you get a small gaston and pull left to the lip of the scoop. It's a long move, and footholds are very small. Some guidebook photos can provide beta on this move. Once the lip is attained, mantle up and get over your feet. You're not done. It's very tempting to jump off, but you haven't done the problem if you do this. Make scary moves to the right to gain a seam that splits the slab, and keep up your momentum. Top out at about 25 feet. This is a superb testpiece!
I wonder who sent first...
Some jackass chipped holds on this problem years ago after the first ascent. From what I understand, unnatural holds can be avoided entirely using the right beta. Talk to a local if you want to do the real thing.
The scoop feature on the Chaos Boulder.
What a good problem. . . powerful shoulder moves.
Ian on his final, unsuccessful attempt before leav...