Login with Facebook
Chaos Boulder
Select Route:
Circus Trick 
Circus Trick Right 
Grim Reacher Direct 
Grim Reacher, The 
Hell Belly 
Hell Belly Stand 
Phantom Fighter 
Phantom Fighter (Stand) 


Hueco: V8 Font: 7B

Type:  Boulder, 25'
Consensus:  Hueco: V8 Font: 7B [details]
Page Views: 4,186
Submitted By: Tristan Perry on Aug 23, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Chaos goes up the center of the overhang and trend...


Chaos starts standing with both hands on a badly sloping shelf. Alternatively, one can start even lower, again with hands on slopers, to add a move or two. From the shelf, move a bit to the left, using crimps to move upwards. The crux move comes when you get a small gaston and pull left to the lip of the scoop. It's a long move, and footholds are very small. Some guidebook photos can provide beta on this move. Once the lip is attained, mantle up and get over your feet. You're not done. It's very tempting to jump off, but you haven't done the problem if you do this. Make scary moves to the right to gain a seam that splits the slab, and keep up your momentum. Top out at about 25 feet. This is a superb testpiece!
I wonder who sent first...
Some jackass chipped holds on this problem years ago after the first ascent. From what I understand, unnatural holds can be avoided entirely using the right beta. Talk to a local if you want to do the real thing.


The scoop feature on the Chaos Boulder.



Photos of Chaos Slideshow Add Photo
What a good problem. . . powerful shoulder moves.
What a good problem. . . powerful shoulder moves.
Ian on his final, unsuccessful attempt before leav...
Ian on his final, unsuccessful attempt before leav...

Comments on Chaos Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
and Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!