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Chaos Out of Control
5.10c/d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.7 from 10
votes
Routes in South Side
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B-52 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Bamboozled T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bat's Ass T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Beethoven's Fifth T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bloody Alternative T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Bloody Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Catch Me Now I'm Falling T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Chaos Out of Control T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Dinkus Dog T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Enigma, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fat Dog T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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First Return T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gemini Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Good Intentions T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Left Up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Legacy, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lichen or Not T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Long Dog T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mettle Detector T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Parachute Woman T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Rat's Ass T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Right Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Second Coming T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sentry Box Ledge Direct T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Short Man's Sorrow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Slug, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Southender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unfinished Concerto T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Windwalker T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Zodiac T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 190 ft (58 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Monty Reagan, Ken Pitts (1987) |
| Page Views: | 5,897 total · 35/month |
| Shared By: | chummer on Aug 22, 2010 |
| Admins: | Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Description
I feel this could be the best 5.10 face route on the Glass. Chaos offers sustained climbing on flawless rock. The gear is good and a bit spaced out at times but nothing death defying.
The Lambert guide describes this route in two pitches but we used to always do it in one long pitch. You'll need 2 60m ropes to rap.
One memorable ascent involved my buddy Curtin on the on sight attempt on a late summer's evening. The clouds were turning black fast as he moved past the first belay. Not long after the sky started to crack and boom and I not so subtly told him to hurry the #$@$ up. He punched it up the second half of the pitch in record time, cleaned the route on rappel, and we ran down the South Side trail as the sky unloaded with rain and lighting striking all around.
The Lambert guide describes this route in two pitches but we used to always do it in one long pitch. You'll need 2 60m ropes to rap.
One memorable ascent involved my buddy Curtin on the on sight attempt on a late summer's evening. The clouds were turning black fast as he moved past the first belay. Not long after the sky started to crack and boom and I not so subtly told him to hurry the #$@$ up. He punched it up the second half of the pitch in record time, cleaned the route on rappel, and we ran down the South Side trail as the sky unloaded with rain and lighting striking all around.
6 Comments