I feel this could be the best 5.10 face route on the Glass. Chaos offers sustained climbing on flawless rock. The gear is good and a bit spaced out at times but nothing death defying.
The Lambert guide describes this route in two pitches but we used to always do it in one long pitch. You'll need 2 60m ropes to rap.
One memorable ascent involved my buddy Curtin on the on sight attempt on a late summer's evening. The clouds were turning black fast as he moved past the first belay. Not long after the sky started to crack and boom and I not so subtly told him to hurry the #$@$ up. He punched it up the second half of the pitch in record time, cleaned the route on rappel, and we ran down the South Side trail as the sky unloaded with rain and lighting striking all around.
Left side of the South Side.
This route is located up on the ledge with Dinkus Dog and Unfinished Concerto. Locate the obvious twin water grooves located to the right of Dinkus Dog and Parachute Woman.
You might need a large hand size (#2 or #3) piece down low. Lots of TCU's, a few bolts, tri cams are always helpful at the Glass.
Mary getting into the fun water groove above the c...
Mary making the thin moves to pull over the P1 cru...
From: Columbia, SC
Sep 17, 2011
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
This climb is excellent! The rock is high quality. Heady moves above gear. Gear is pretty standard (every 10-15 feet or so)mostly thin, & sometimes questionable but mostly decent to good. Would not want to do this on a hot day. 2 bolts on 2nd pitch up to ring anchors. Can take up to top with another pitch and end at hemlock to climbers left.
From: Clemson, S.C.
Oct 5, 2011
Great thin face climbing with a fun water groove finish. The groove is very well protected compared to Dinkus. Definitely want a #2 for up there and doubles in the medium hands and smaller with some tri-cams. The start is probably the most dangerous, but its over with quickly and there is gear. P1's bulge pull is well protected, but the section afterwards requires very specific gear otherwise it will be marginal and scary. Entire P2 is phenomenal climbing.
May 28, 2012
Can be climbed and rapped on a single 80m if you got one.
Sep 11, 2012
The first pitch is scary and you should be solid at .10a tech face/ slab before you attempt it. Sandbaggers...
|By Bryan Haslam|
Jun 18, 2014
Agree with Phoffman.... Back in the day, this route worked me and I felt it was poorly protected compared with Dinkus. Good climbing but be solid at the grade.