|1,791 page views|
This is what we improvised for a new route. It starts on the dihedral until you get about 7' below the roof, and then crosses west (climber's right) over to the 5.7 arete and face by means of some positive handholds. Changing corners from dihedral to arete/face is the crux, 5.8. Once on the face, continue on the arete (climber's left) or climb the face toward the right up to the top. You can climb over the top from there toward the TR/anchors, but you have to climb over the rope. Lowering requires dropping back over the arete, or lowering down the right face to a ledge or down to the dirt, although the rope pulls you over to the fall line (towards the dihedral).
Toprope - We used long (10') slings to set up a TR that drops down over the dihedral - the rope can be managed from there without drag/damage. You can lead the dihedral and set trad gear, but once on the face to the west, there are few places for protection.
The excellent holds at the crux.
|Comments on Changing Corners
|By Phil Persson|
From: Denver, Colorado
Oct 7, 2008
Great easy trad lead, no need to TR this unless you uncomfortable with runouts on easy ground, the pro is kinda sparse past the dihedral and onto the arete as you said though, so maybe a PG-13 Route for the lead. Very fun warm-up though for the harder cracks around the corner!
|By Jay Eggleston|
Dec 6, 2012
The crux on this is only about 10' long. A single bolt at the crux would make for a great lead route. I am not going to bolt it, but it would make sense if it had a bolt.
|By Andy Novak|
Jan 25, 2013
Wow, I strongly disagree. This route isn't that inspiring. If you want to clip a bolt, there are 2 far better sport routes around the corner.