Changeling  5.7+

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch Consensus:  5.7+ [details] FA:  Unknown Submitted By:  Steve Marr on Nov 7, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Changeling.

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This area is within the Charon's Gardens Wilderness Area MORE INFO >>> Currently the the US Fish and Wildlife Service is reviewing the Comprehensive Conservation Plan and reviewing activities for compatibility. Contact the Access Fund or the Wichita Mountains Climber's Coalition for more information on how you can get involved in keeping the tradition of climbing safe in the Wildlife Refuge. Use extra care to avoid doing anything to change the natural resources in any way. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment This area is designated as Charon's Gardens Wilderness Area MORE INFO >>> Currently the the US Fish and Wildlife Service is reviewing the Comprehensive Conservation Plan and reviewing activities for compatibility. Contact the Access Fund or the Wichita Mountains Climber's Coalition for more information on how you can get involved in keeping the tradition of climbing safe in the Wildlife Refuge. Use extra care to avoid doing anything to change the natural resources in any way. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>> Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Changeling is located just to the right of Trickster Coyote and is very similar in character. It is more sustained than Coyote, and felt a little harder than the 5.7 rating. Start up a face that quickly brings you to a small, shallow dihedral. There are some awkward, twisting moves through the dihedral. The crux is about half way up and involves thin face moves over thin gear. There is a small tricam pocket just above the crux and a couple of good Alien placements. As the route begins to move left and join Coyote, move right and follow a nice crack through a bulge (also awkward) and continue up to a good ledge shared with the top of Coyote. Bring a good selection of protection.

Protection 

Standard rack to #3 Camalot. Tricams and TCUs helpful. Gear anchor, tree rappel.