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Solar Slab - Upper Tier
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arch Enemy T 
Change Up T 
Going Nuts T 
Heliotrope T 
Solar Slab T 
Sunburn T 
Sundog T 
Sunflower T 
Sunspot Ridge T 

Change Up 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 898
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Apr 6, 2006

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Larry in his old school ways finding creative gear...

Description 

Start just to the left of the curving arch of Arch Enemy and climb the slab to a right-facing corner. Excellent climbing on good rock leads to a belay ledge about 160 feet up. Pitch 2 continues up the corner to a roof, where the rock quality declines abruptly. Traverse right under the roof on loose rock with shaky pro. Finish via the tunnel at the top of the arch. A more civilized option for the second pitch would be to traverse right on varnished ledges to the belay/rap station on Arch Enemy.

Protection 

Standard rack


Photos of Change Up Slideshow Add Photo
Starting up pitch one of Change Up.
Starting up pitch one of Change Up.
Excellent varnished corner on Change Up.
Excellent varnished corner on Change Up.
Nearing the belay ledge at the top of pitch one of...
Nearing the belay ledge at the top of pitch one of...
Traversing under the roof on pitch 2 of Change Up ...
Traversing under the roof on pitch 2 of Change Up ...
Finishing up via the tunnel of pitch two of Change...
Finishing up via the tunnel of pitch two of Change...
Larry DeAngelo leading the scary, chossy pitch two...
Larry DeAngelo leading the scary, chossy pitch two...
Low on pitch 1 of Change Up
Low on pitch 1 of Change Up
Larry is intrigued by something he sees up there, ...
Larry is intrigued by something he sees up there, ...

Comments on Change Up Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From: Vegas
Apr 6, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

P-1 is a blast!
I would have given this climb 3 stars if it weren't for the loose rock on the traverse under the roof of P-2.
I pulled off a frisbee sized chunk of crumbly rock when following Larry on this pitch. Nice lead Scary Larry! I would have peed my pants, if I was leading it.
Climbing/finishing up through the tunnel of P-2 was awesome!
By John Hegyes
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 7, 2006

This route had so much promise; pitch one was great but I backed off of this route at the crux. Bad pro and chossy rock here, unfortunately. John