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The Weeping Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bathsheba T 
Bye Gully T 
Change in the Weather T 
Clam Chowder T 
Commencement T 
Duck Soup T 
Green Monster T 
Revelation T 
Sampson T 
Serpentine T 
Surprise T 
Surprise Direct T 
Ten Karat Gold T 

Change in the Weather 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: John Allen & Kenji Haroutunian, September 1988
Season: Spring - Fall
Page Views: 386
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Jan 23, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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This is a sustained, high quality one-pitch face route at the right edge of the Weeping Wall. There are long runouts getting up to the first bolt, and going from the second bolt up to the top. This route will force you to think about your footwork!


two bolts, plus gear for the belay at the base, and perhaps for a placement or two before the face climbing starts

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By Brandon R.
Sep 25, 2006

The crux on this one is probably 20 feet out from the last bolt.
By Darshan Ahluwalia
From: Petaluma, CA
Mar 21, 2007

Yup! Got to about 3 feet from topping out on this one, but downclimbed the whole thing because I didn't want to risk the 40 foot fall onto the ledge.
By Brandon R.
May 19, 2008

This route is badly bolted. Why put the bolt after the crux when there are stances to bolt before the crux? Purposely runout routes make crappy routes IMO... might as well solo it.
By Keny Glasscock
From: Salt Lake City
Oct 20, 2012

Kudos to Kenji and Johnny. The days of balls are sadly over. Awesome route way back then.
By dnaiscool
Apr 10, 2015

I agree with Keny on this one. Every area has routes that are defined by the courage it will take to lead them. This route, at .10b, in THE route of this flavor on the Weeping Wall. But it is not out of character for the immediate area, because not more than 50 feet to the right is another character-defining climb: Rebolting Development (.11a) and a fall from the crux on that route has ended in broken bones...more than once.

Suicide Rock has never been a "sport climbing" crag, especially on the routes where bolts provide the only means of protection, and anyone with the skills and the courage required to lead Change in the Weather will find the send most gratifying...Better be a solid 5.11 slab climber...just sayin'...

Kenji went on to become the Executive Director of the entire Outdoor Retailer Show in Salt Lake City. One of his early climbing experiences was working out in the outdoor climbing specific gym I built in a parking structure at my dorm while going to UCLA...that was back in 1983. John, Kenji and I all worked as climbing guides for A-16 back in the late 80's and early 90's, and we took a lot of clients to Suicide BITD.

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