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New Wave Wall
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Change in Luck S 
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Tsunami S 
Wavey Gravy S 

Change in Luck 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: John Fowler, Scott Ayers, Brent Olson
Page Views: 544
Submitted By: iancevans on Oct 18, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: The bottom half of 'Change In Luck'.

Description 

This route is basically a hard boulder problem (V3/4, IMO) up to a good hands free rest. After that a long, dynamic move puts you onto easier terrain. After the last bolt directly on Change in Luck, it's a long, traversing runout to join Skid Mark at the last bolt and then chains shortly thereafter. The climbing on this runout is very moderate.

Change in Luck currently shares anchors with Skid Mark, around 10 feet to the right and perhaps 25 feet above the last bolt directly on Change in Luck. A spicy runout--a fall near the top could have you swinging hard into the cliff in front of New Wave.

A fun climb worth getting on if you've already tagged some of the better lines on the wall.



Note: the right side of the big hole that you rest in feels pretty rotten--use it gently.

Note: Stick-clipping the second bolt is not a bad idea; very difficult climbing to a difficult clipping position.

Location 

This is the line left of Skid Mark, which is the line left of Holey Moley. Shares last bolt and anchors with Skid Mark.

Protection 

Bolts, Anchors, extra long runners to hang on the last bolt if you want to give your partners an easier, safer lead.


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By iancevans
Oct 18, 2009

EFR lists this route as .12 (I think) and McMillen has it at 12a. I'm pretty sure it's closer to .12c: crux moves as hard as (or slightly harder than) Right Tissue, but less sustained.

I didn't think the runout traverse into the top of Skid Mark added anything but unnecessary danger to the climb. I'd prefer anchors directly above the line right at the break in the cliff. Still, route is fun enough that it's worth putting up with the runout.
By jbak
Oct 19, 2009
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

This route dates back to the EARLY days of sport on Lemmon. We were all mentally still in trad mode. That explains the run-out. It was assumed that you would either just run it out or plug a cam in the horizontal.

I saw many talented climbers of the time fail to on-sight the start. Most of us (well me anyway) thought that stick-clipping the start was cheating because it took away the danger of an ankle-smashing fall. If you stick-clip, you have pretty much turned it into a top-rope. But it's your ankle.

At the time, I thought this route required a stiff-as-hell shoe for the opening moves. Then I watched Bobbie Bensman CRUISE the route (on-sight, effortless) in the softest shoe of the day. I was impressed.
By jbak
Oct 19, 2009
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

FA John Fowler, Scott A, Brent Olson
By jbak
Oct 26, 2009
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I checked my old journal for my entry on Change Of Luck. I rated it 12b at the time. That makes Bobbie's cruise even more impressive.
By Eric D
From: Gnarnia
Jun 27, 2010
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13

I agree, stick clipping the 2nd bolt would basically mean you are on TR for the hard climbing. But, top roping is fun too. It's not all that necessary to stick clip, just be careful. Good climb. The runout up high is not too bad. You are on very big holds when run-out. A #2 BD cam will make you feel better.