|169 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'|
|Submitted By: ||Brian Quiter on Oct 16, 2004|
Rick Harlan leading the difficult first moves of "...
Chancroid is devious climb that makes for an even tougher lead. The first bolt is pretty far off the deck and the crux is below it. You could protect this part with a cam if you wanted. There's a chalked-up fin and a thin seam to the left of it for the first 20 feet. Big reaches and crappy feet would be the best description I can think of. This whole part is tough. Then the holds get bigger and more frequent 1as you pass by a hueco and the second bolt. Proceeding to the top is comparably easy.
Chancroid is on a left-facing portion of the wall between a very visable crack and Skill Saw Gourmet which faces straight downhill.
To lead, bring a small piece to protect the first bolt because it no longer has a hanger, then go past two bolts and either girth hitch something or throw a #2 in the crack up high. The top anchors are two bolts without rings.
The first bolt no longer has a hanger which is why this route gets an 's'.
Can easily set up a top rope.