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Susan on the starting moves
This striking climb is easily identified as the wide crack which splits the formation into two distinct (upper and lower) halves. It starts as a hand crack but quickly widens to give good wide crack practice...do it 3 or 4 times in a row after leading to simulate longer Valley routes...The rock is quite good and although short the climb is memorable.
This is a hand to offwidth crack, so rack accordingly. If needed a large cam can be walked part of the way before it widens into mega-cam/Big Bro size.
Feeling the love near to top of the route
Me just past the crux
That is Leave it to Beaver on the left side of the...
Susan prepping to pimp
you get a #6 in here and that's about it unt...
Oh no! OUT OF COFFEE! ALL IS LOST
Photo by Brian Cooper
Photo by Brian Cooper
|Comments on Championship Wrestling
|By Crotch Robbins|
Jan 14, 2004
If setting a TR after leading, leave a #4 big-bro up high to help keep the rope out of the crack.
|By Steven Powers|
Jan 15, 2004
this route seems awfully soft graded for 10a offwidth!
Jan 2, 2008
I would have to agree this thing was a little softly rated. If Mainstreet in Vedauwoo is 10a then this would have to go into the 8+ range due to its short nature and lack of tricky OW moves. I would hate to sandbag anyone though, expect a 10a type workout on this thing regardless of the rating. My number 6 friend was my last piece of gear half way up the route- probably would need big bros on the upper half of the route, but you really arent falling out of it then!
|By Jed Love|
From: Utah, Wyoming, Colorado
Jan 12, 2008
This route is an 8+, and Mainstreet is 5.9.
|By David Aguasca!|
From: New York
Feb 9, 2010
I add another vote to the "soft for 5.10" argument. The rock at the top is pretty cool, though, patina-type stuff.
|By Nelson Day|
From: Victorville, CA
Jan 2, 2013
I took a 3.5 camalot, #4, #5, and #6 C4, and a #3 and #4 big bro. Used all of it. Didn't need any gear down lower (easy face climbing up to the crack). This was my first experience placing big bros and was fun/good practice! If you are so inclined, you can arm bar most of the climb instead of using the face features on the right, which gives it more of an off-width feel. Left side in works well. Fun! The "walk off" for this is on the opposite side of the wall. From the top of the climb you walk to the climber's right, walk down a few ramps (working your way back to the climber's left) and then chimney down a short section next to Sphincter Quits on the opposite side of Sports Challenge. There are some bail slings on the formation (climber's right after you top out), but the down climb/chimney is casual.
I used a #3, #2, and #1 for the gear anchor at the top.