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Champagne Left 

Hueco: V4 Font: 6B

   
Type:  Boulder, Alpine, 14'
Consensus:  Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]
FA: unsure, but one of the early developers
Page Views: 498
Submitted By: Chip Phillips on Dec 10, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Champagne Left ascends the center of the face from...

The majority of these boulders are located within the Mt Evans Wilderness Area, which is regulated & patrolled by the US Forest Service. Climber MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Begin from a sit start shared with Champagne Right in the middle of the block on obvious sloping edges. Bump to higher sloping edges and continue STRAIGHT up the face, potentially via a long dynamic move to a good hold higher up. Although the opening move out of the sds is slightly awkward, the quality of the rock is absolutely perfect and the problem stays with you until the end.

NOTE: Although this problem and what I've called Champagne Right were never actually named by the early developers, the boulder was apparently coined the Champagne Block and I've given these problems the namesake moniker until further notice. If Ben, Jason, David, Jeremy, Cam or Jamie read this, feel free to chime in.

Location 

This problem begins from a sit start in the center of the vertical downvalley-face of the boulder 20 yards uphill from the problem Seurat. Perfect salt-and-pepper granite, you can't miss it.

Protection 

There are a one or two little blocks near your pads, so use a couple Organics and cover them up.


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By Brock M.
Sep 6, 2010
rating: V4 6B

A sit down start you say? Obvious sloping edges? Perhaps I was missing something, but I couldn't pull my butt off the ground from a sit start on this one. I used a left hand on a small slopey crimp just above shoulder height and a lower RH gaston just to the right of the black spot on the rock. Can anyone offer beta on the lower start?
By Krull
Jan 29, 2011

There's an obvious sit start from the undercling....