Hey, I`ll be in Chamonix next week and looking for motivated partners to do some long alpine crack climbs with me. Im also looking for any advice possible. Where to camp cheap/free? What routes to do in the mountains? Where to find conditions etc.
Ill also be climbing around France after if you can recommend any places or partners.
Voie Rebuffat South Face Aiguille du Midi TD+ roll out of the Telepherique and off you go (buy your tickets in advance) ends at the tunnels. The Arete des Cosmiques is a killer alpine route too. There are good routes on the Aiguille du Blaitiere like Voi de Gauche.
I haven't been to Chamonix yet but I have been planning a trip for the last month. We were rained out this weekend so we will try next weekend. Our plan is to refuge at l'envers des aiguilles. From the refuge, you can access many aiguilles with moderate trad routes. We were looking to do Pedro Polar, Marchand des Sable or Guy-Anne (all classic moderates). Another place to check out is the Grand Capucin (voie suisse, voie bonnatti), it looks amazing there. More info is at CamptoCamp.org.
You can bivouc in the mountains for free. For instance, outside a refuge is perfectly legit as far as I am aware. Long stay camping in the wilderness is illegal though and I am not sure where to do that.
For weather, check out Metéo France or chamonix-meteo.com, the latter is dedicated to the Alps.
PM me if you would like to discuss this more and we could potentially meet somewhere out there next week. Good luck!!!
Ross V - I would highly recommend Pedro Pollo. It was quite fun and great climbing. I also have climbed the easy route on the Grand Capusin and highly recommend that as well. Huts are the best way to climb here if you are willing to spend a little extra money. here are some more photos and infos from my blog: racheligreenberg.blogspot.c…. Happy Climbing!
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