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Challenges of Leisure 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Jim Redo
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,264
Submitted By: Jim Redo on Apr 23, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Jimmy and Daisy getting it done.

Description 

This route is 13 bolts long, has a slab crux, has really small holds. Don't do it in the sun. It is good climbing.


Protection 

This was previously known as "Wake Of The Flood" but was renamed. It was an abandoned project. It is 13 bolts long! It has a slab crux, but the route overall does not really climb like a slab. Killer, go do it.


Location 

The route is just right of Sargasso Sea.



Photos of Challenges of Leisure Slideshow Add Photo
Dan Levison redpointing COL.
Dan Levison redpointing COL.
Sal hitting up the traverse right after the crux.
Sal hitting up the traverse right after the crux.
Sal on Wake of the Flood (now called Challenges of Leisure).
Sal on Wake of the Flood (now called Challenges of...
Comments on Challenges of Leisure Add Comment
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By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Apr 30, 2002

Jim Redo's on the Web!

By Jim Redo
Oct 1, 2002

Cool I'm glad you found a sequence for the masses. Tell everyone you know who climbs 12a to go do it and let me know what they think A.C. I hope they like the route. On hindsight I only think it's 13a. But I wasn't smart enough to find the 12a way to do it.. Oh well.

By Kreighton Bieger
May 6, 2003

This line looks so great, but I can't climb 13b. Not to worry, though, even though Jim put the route up at 13b (and what could Jim Redo possibly know about these things?), and it's gone from 12c, to 12b, to 12a in the peanut gallery. I had hope there for a few weeks that I'd be able to get on this route once it hit the low 11 range....

Alas, my hopes were dashed when Jim corrected the situation. I'm still hoping though! Maybe someone should rename this route "The Dow of Difficulty".

kreighton, (levity, just for levity)

By Chris Briley
Jun 18, 2006

Great route, at least what parts I could climb... Does anyone have some beta for the crux section (directly above the bolt with the bail-rings on it)? I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks.

By Dan Levison
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 19, 2006

Match on obvious crimp, high-step right foot to pebble or small edge above pebble, rock onto right foot and reach up and slightly right to stick small crimp with your right hand (crux) -- left foot to starting crimp, left hand to jug (horizontal crack).

By Joe Collins
Apr 7, 2007

Without question a one-move wonder. Excluding the crux, good low-5.12 climbing.

By Travis Blair
Oct 31, 2011
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

I agree with everyone's comments, a one move wonder, but the rest of the route is stellar, four star, 5.12 climbing! The crux is hard enough to set the grade at solid 13a but no harder, in my opinion, and since all the clips and moves are super safe, this is a perfect project for your first 5.13 - it was mine!!

By Travis Blair
Dec 2, 2011
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Hey Curt! I sent the route on the day of Halloween, and all the draws were in place (thanks by the way!) So the mysterious occurrence happened in between October 31st and November 4th. There wasn't a draw at the very top bolt before the anchor, but that climbing is easier and I guessed that you just didn't feel you needed one?
Travis

By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Oct 10, 2012
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

I really want to give this route 3 or 4 stars, but the crux is just too unpleasant to do so. The rest of the climb features super fun 5.11 climbing down low and pleasant 5.10 climbing up high with maybe a bit of 5.12 here and there. Moreover the route has interesting technical sequences on great stone. In fact, I think that if you are reasonably tall that even the crux move is probably pretty fun. When I use the lower foot that Dan Levinson mentions, I can pretty easily back into and out of the crux sequence body position needed to grab the upper right hand crimp; unfortunately, when I use this lower foot I come up about 3 inches short of the crux right hand crimp. Thus I need to use the higher foot edge, which because of its increased height, makes the move quite a bit more strenuous and unpleasant (I really need to crank hard on the sharp left hand crimp...ouch). In short, I think this is probably a great 3-4 star route if you have a good ape index or are tall, but the route probably becomes unpleasant and pretty damn hard if you are shorter. Thus because I am not tall or short, I split the difference and called it 2 stars and 13b (though probably not on the "solid" end of 'b' for me).