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Challenges and rewards of sleeping on the wall..
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By Liberty
Mar 27, 2013
Me

Personal experiences only please....


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By Rob Dillon
Mar 27, 2013

Planned: mostly rewards.

Unplanned: mostly challenges.


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By Jason Kaplan
From Glenwood ,Co
Mar 27, 2013
avitar pic <br />

Depending on the route hauling can be a real challenge. I recently did the titan with 2 friends and we hauled the double cliff cabana up there. the first night worked out alright, the hauling wasn't bad to the top of pitch 3, we had the ledge set up decently just after dark. The hauling the next day was tougher for sure but no impossible, basically we would lower bags out and have the person cleaning hold them out from the crack on p4, on pitch 5 we combined this with keeping some tension on the lower out line to hold them out until they got across the void then revert to holding them out from 5 feet above. the top of this pitch rolls over a bit to the anchor which made the actual hauling suck because of the grind of the ascender every time it had to be slid back down (3:1) Then we had the challenge of how to get everything around the duck. it actually wasn't too bad, I had a #4 mid way through the pitch then we tensioned the lead line and shuttled loads back and forth across the guide line. Fun problem solving. At this point it was late in the day and we didn't want to haul all our crap to the standard bivy where we would have hung the ledge off the side. Mainly because we feared getting back to the rap route with all of it. So I managed to tightly rig the ledge at the rap route, and then my other friend set out for the standard bivy ledge to sleep. it wasn't steep enough to pitch the ledge well so it made for a tight sleeping arrangement. both times we pitched the ledge were not ideal but made workable by padding the slabs that it wanted to sit on. All in all it was not too bad, and great practice. We ran out of water by the second night but only had 2 pitches left in our dehydrated state. Current working on putting a short film type thing together about it actually, I can shoot you a link if you want to see the raw footage (mostly unedited, besides having cut the stuff that really didn't need to be seen). Also look at the photos for the finger of fate for a picture of the 2nd bivy site.


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By Liberty
Mar 27, 2013
Me

Jason Kaplan wrote:
Depending on the route hauling can be a real challenge. I recently did the titan with 2 friends and we hauled the double cliff cabana up there. the first night worked out alright, the hauling wasn't bad to the top of pitch 3, we had the ledge set up decently just after dark. The hauling the next day was tougher for sure but no impossible, basically we would lower bags out and have the person cleaning hold them out from the crack on p4, on pitch 5 we combined this with keeping some tension on the lower out line to hold them out until they got across the void then revert to holding them out from 5 feet above. the top of this pitch rolls over a bit to the anchor which made the actual hauling suck because of the grind of the ascender every time it had to be slid back down (3:1) Then we had the challenge of how to get everything around the duck. it actually wasn't too bad, I had a #4 mid way through the pitch then we tensioned the lead line and shuttled loads back and forth across the guide line. Fun problem solving. At this point it was late in the day and we didn't want to haul all our crap to the standard bivy where we would have hung the ledge off the side. Mainly because we feared getting back to the rap route with all of it. So I managed to tightly rig the ledge at the rap route, and then my other friend set out for the standard bivy ledge to sleep. it wasn't steep enough to pitch the ledge well so it made for a tight sleeping arrangement. both times we pitched the ledge were not ideal but made workable by padding the slabs that it wanted to sit on. All in all it was not too bad, and great practice. We ran out of water by the second night but only had 2 pitches left in our dehydrated state. Current working on putting a short film type thing together about it actually, I can shoot you a link if you want to see the raw footage (mostly unedited, besides having cut the stuff that really didn't need to be seen). Also look at the photos for the finger of fate for a picture of the 2nd bivy site.

totally man, I can't wait to sleep on the wall yet its scary too
The video would be interesting to see. God knows I had my share of epics too ;)


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