Preston sends Coral Bells Arete in the early morni...
This buttress has a multitude of climbs ranging from 5.6 to 5.11. There are still new routes sprouting on this wall. Depending on the weather you can find a nice face, as you can climb the north, west, or east faces. A short approach and a decent quantity of sport routes translate into a crowded cliff at times.
Above Winky and Waxman Go Bolting is this newer bolted route. It follows the bolts to chains and is well-protected and exposed. This is Hollow Man on steroids. A great route, a must-do route... Enjoy jamming around that chockstone. This climb is similar to Hollow Man in the sense that it is pretty consistent and very vertical to slightly overhanging; it differs in the sense that there is a harder move and it has way more exposure. Do this route!!!...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
Does anybody know names or grades for two bolted routes on Challenge that aren't in "The Book"? One is the bolted line next to Birth Simulator. I always thought it *was* Birth Simulator until I realized that's the trad crack. The other is the new bolt line just to the left of Hollow Man. Looks like fun. Anybody know anything?
Just ran into the "new" routes Mega and Whoopsie, and the extended Coral Bells. Whoopsie is an excellent addition. It seems, though, that the base area around Coral Bells has really taken a hit in the last 12-18 months. Lots of vegetation has been removed, the base area is expanding and way dusty, and the area is taking on the aura of an AF sport crag. I would hope people will show the area a little more respect.
"I would hope people will show the area a little more respect."
Hey, soon to be old dude, I think the staging area has been gettin' hammered for years. There's just a gob of traffic, all day on the weekends, and, every night on the weekdays. Super popular area. Kinda compares to the Slips staging area.
Not sure what kinda of TLC we could effect there. Got a pretty good buffer of foliage which hides the staging area from the trail. Erosion hasn't seemed to be out of hand. Its just flattened and dusty. Many many feet.
smax, we also saw that yesterday and climbed it. Looks like a botched job that was sort-of cleaned. The two remaining bolts were not placed deeply enough and the hangars are spinners. There are probably a half dozen studs still in place, a couple with nuts. I'd rate it 5.3 or 5.4. The rap station is handy though for routes to the right.
I was climbing Friday night, August 24th at challenge buttress up Big Cottonwood Canyon. While cleaning up I accidentally took another party's brand new Locking biner with new ATC. They look like they have been used maybe once. I feel awful about this. I thought they were ours. I beleive it was from a group of students from the UofU. Please contact me if it is yours or pass along the word. Call me at 801-550-3001. Once again very sorry. Be willing to describe the equipment. I don't want to give it to a random douche. :)