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 ADVANCED
Salt Lake Slips
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abracadabra T 
Chalking Dead T,TR 
Double Tap S 
Entre Nous S 
Forgotten Ambition T 
Goth Girls S 
High Fructose Corn Syrup S 
Italian Arete S 
Maudlin S 
Nosferatu S 
Roll the Bones S 
Salem's Lot S,TR 
Senseless Banter T 
Thieving Magpie S 
Witchhunt S 
Wop Dego T 
Zombieland T 

Chalking Dead 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Billy Smallen and Carl Dec -- 9/24/12
New Route: Yes
Season: Afternoon shade
Page Views: 1,597
Submitted By: Billy Smallen on Sep 25, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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BETA PHOTO: A view of the Zombie Corners, Salt Lake Slips

The Climbing 

This great corner throws all sort of BCC style your way. Juggy roofs, splitter cracks, and tricky gear--all in 60 ft!

The corner is the right-most of the two prominent corners located off the ledge above and to the right of Roll the Bones, with the other one being Zombieland's second pitch. It shares anchors at the top and bottom with Double Tap.

Climb up with sparse gear for 10 feet. As the climbing gets harder the gear gets better. Keep moving up past jugs and around a roof to the point where the crack ends. Clip the bolt and face climb on jugs to gain a splitter widening finger crack, which takes you around a roof. Keep moving through hidden finger pods to more jugs and the top of the climb.


How to Find It 

This route takes off from the ledge that runs from the top of Italian ArÍte to Zombieland. Climb any of the routes between these to gain the ledge, with Zombieland being the most direct. Belay from either of the right-most sets of anchor bolts and head over to the corner! Chalking Dead can be toproped after leading pitch 2 of Zombieland or Double Tap, as all three share anchors.

To Descend: There are bolts with rap chains on top. Either do a double-rope rap to the ground or two single rope raps utilizing the anchors on top of pitch 1 of Zombieland. Alternatively, you can walk off after topping out by heading north and following the trail across the formation. You can get back down to the base using the trail through the scree field gully or you can take the trail back up to Storm Mountain if you parked there.


Gear 

Mostly fingers to hand size pieces. A double rack from #0.3 to #1 Camalot and a draw for the bolt will be fine. Stoppers are useful in several places. There are anchor bolts and rap chains at the top.


A huge thank you to Carl for his massive cleaning job!



Photos of Chalking Dead Slideshow Add Photo
Another view of the Zombie Corners. Chalking Dead climbs the prominent corner at the top right.
BETA PHOTO: Another view of the Zombie Corners. Chalking Dead ...
The route from the belay. Sorry about the butt shot.
The route from the belay. Sorry about the butt sho...
Comments on Chalking Dead Add Comment
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By skidat801pow
Oct 7, 2012

nice little crack, heads up for hornets flying out of the roof jugs! always good to see someone putting in the time to make new routes!

By ddriver
From: SLC
Sep 30, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Super fun position, fingerlocks all the way, worthwhile even if it is short. Four tcu's was plenty gear for this.

By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 31, 2013
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Best climb at the slips. Gear is a little tricky, especially once you want to plug in pieces to your handholds at the crux. Didn't use anything larger than a .5 Camalot for the whole climb. Great rock quality where it counts.

By Sam Cannon
From: Holladay, Utah
Nov 9, 2013
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Everything at the slips feels really, really soft. This is the easiest 5.9 I've ever led. Felt more like an easy 8 or a solid 7 - so don't be intimidated if you're not leading 5.9s on gear yet but feel good at 5.8. The pitch is, however, super fun. The gear is good. A yellow TCU protects the roof.