Chalkdust Torture 5.11a/b
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| Type: | Sport, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a/b [details] |
| FA: | Joel McKillop |
| Season: | Evenings in September Only! I'm an Excellent driver. |
| Submitted By: | Brent Larsen on Sep 5, 2011 |
| |
Crazy for you!
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Description If you're the type of climber who hates crimps...this route will have you slicing your wrists with insanity and a general hatred of life. Every freaking hold is a crimp...and sometimes when you send, the bugs crawl around in your skull! The freakin' layback moves even require crimps and crimpy holds that tear your tendons from the bone. I can see the worms moving under my skin! Seriously though, pocket pulling puds are only going to get so far on this crazy-crimpy 5.11a. This little madman is stout for the grade, consistant, continuous, and requires finger and leg strength that most big hold grabbers don't develop until they discover how rad it is to stare at the chick in the Pallates class. Fascinated by this chick, who can do push-ups with her fingers, this big-hold kind of guy won't miss a session for at least six months before they decide that asking for her number would be insane. I look at a guy like that and think...that yoga instructor would look good buried under my stairs...i would use her fingertip bones as holds for my new indoor climbing wall in my garage... I'm not crazy! You're the one who's crazy if you puss out and walk past this Asylum climb that is an absolute must do.
Location Farthest to the left. Up a small hill. I think it was the fatter chick that told Aron Ralston that guys who listen to Phish don't get girl friends.
Protection 12 bolts and sporty anchors.
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