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 ADVANCED
Long Canyon North
Select Route:
Bare Knuckle Boxing T 
Chalk is Cheap T,S 
Chopper T 
Dawn of an Error T 
Dragon's Lair T 
Gin and Techtonics T 
Peccadillo T 
Program Director T 
Shit Eatin' Grin T 

Chalk is Cheap 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Kyle Copeland
Season: morning shade
Page Views: 690
Submitted By: charley graham on Nov 20, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Very delicate and then burly, the two pitches of this Copeland masterpiece represent opposing ends of the Wingate spectrum of excellence. The upper section of the slab and stemming corner requires balance based more on faith than feasibility and then the mood changes to overhanging fists reminiscent of the crux of the Yosemite classic Freestone. Above lies an ample dose of great thin hands and the anchor.

Location 

At the Deadman's Buttress on the north side of Long Canyon, a five minute walk to the right of Program Director. Chalk is Cheap is the only bolted route at the crag and the overhanging left-facing corner of the second pitch is very obvious. Descend via good bolted anchors.

Protection 

Bring a single set of cams to red camalot and ten quickdraws for the mostly bolted fist pitch and many fist and thin hand sized pieces (with a couple cams of the sizes in between) for the big steep corner above.


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By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
May 7, 2013

A good route but the first pitch seemed rather improbable, especially at 12-.
By Matt Pesce
From: moab, ut.
Apr 16, 2014

glad to hear someone else thinks so...maybe a hold broke ?? felt like 5.12 A0

2nd pitch is amazing !
By Greg Cameron
Apr 22, 2014

Great climb! Neither my partner or I could touch the 5.12 face, but it's easy enough to pull through. The lower, 5.10 part of this pitch is very interesting and fun. The second pitch is burly. I'd call it 5.10+ overhanging hand and fist to 5.11- thin hands.