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Chain of Command 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Randy Farris & Mike Caldwell - 1987
Page Views: 1,868
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Aug 2, 2003
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Tony Bubb reaches the crux traverse on 'Chain Of C...
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Description 

Chain of Command is a nice face climb and a natural way to continue past Bonzo.

P1: Climb Bonzo. Apparently the traditional way to do Chain of Command is to break left around the arete about 30 feet below the top of Bonzo, but it seems more natural to climb the dihedral all the way to the first set of anchors.

P2: Climb up and slightly left up ever-steepening rock. Most of the climb is bolt protected face climbing on somewhat fragile flakes. Clip a long runner to the last bolt and traverse right and then up to an intermediate anchor consisting of two star drive bolts (crux #1). Continue up and right above this anchor for another 20 feet to a second anchor. This last section protects with some small gear (no bolts despite what various topos may show) and contains the true crux of the route - a one or two move section right off a good stance.

We rapped to the anchor on top of Bonzo with a 70m rope and 5-10 feet of rope to spare. A 60m would be tight if it reached at all. One more rap to the ground.


Protection 

Ten draws or so and a few TCUs/Aliens or wires.



Photos of Chain of Command Slideshow Add Photo
Tony Bubb starts off following his 'Chain Of Command (5.11a)' on Sundance Buttress. Photo by Josh Janes, 2004.
Tony Bubb starts off following his 'Chain Of Comma...
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 3, 2003
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Cool route, a little enervating due to some questionable rock. The first 'pitch' with 6 bolts had a 5.10 crux move around the 3rd or 4th bolt. The step across did not feel like the crux to me- you can make the move quickly and then go up to jugs to the anchor. From there clip both bolts and head up. The 'second pitch' crux is right above the bolts and needs no gear for safety. Mentally you might want it, but not practically. After a move or two it was easy enough to just go to the anchor. The climb overall is a two-crux wonder that is fun and sustained at the 5.10- level.

Pretty good. A little spicy not due to big fall potential, but rather due to the "wonder which hold might give" potential.

Easy for 11a? Maybe just my style. I powered through the crux but it did not feel technically difficult. People with less reach or shoulders might find it about right at the grade.

The top anchor should be replaced. It is not very good and one of the button-heads is sticking out, but felt secure. The death triangle up there is taking it's toll. There's not good gear backup, so it's not like you can just leave gear if you get there and one is too bad to trust.

By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Jun 13, 2011

Very fun. There are still some creaky holds, so watch out! I noticed in general the underclings are sketchy, while the crimps and sidepulls are solid. Sporty bolting. We couldn't figure out where the 3rd pitch was, so we bailed.