Chain Gang  5.12a

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Type:  Sport, 60 feet Consensus:  5.12a [details] FA:  Season:  Winter Submitted By:  Luke Stefurak on Jan 30, 2013 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Luke works through the crux of Chain Gang. Adam Sc...

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Private property with a public access easement and conservation easement allowing climbing held by the Access Fund. Critical to see current requirements and restrictions. MORE INFO >>> Jailhouse has been and remains privately owned. The owner has graciously allowed an access easement and conservation easement to let climbers get to and climb at the cliff. Current access is now via the new double gate and gravel road. In the future, a new route may be necessary due to future subdivisions. For the current gate code and rules, visit www.accessfund.org/jailhouse. Some critical conditions of the easement we need to comply with include: No dogs on the property Close all gates (typically there are over 200 head of horses on the property), particularly the gate to O'Byrnes Ferry Road No loud music No fires No camping at the cliff, trailhead, or anywhere in the vicinity Access allowed only from sun-up to one hour after sundown No littering In addition, seasonal raptor closures on a portion of cliff line may be posted on the property and online if there is active raptor nesting. Our ability to climb here is contingent on our compliance with the conditions of the easement. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Start off with easy moves up a pillar to a short horizontal roof. Pull over the roof and move right with some difficulty due to lack of feet. Sequential moves lead to the fourth bolt where you must traverse right. These bad holds are the crux and lead to V slot, jug and a possible knee bar. One more clip and a series of amazing jugs leads to the anchor.

Location 

This is the farthest left route on the upper left side of the Jailhouse.

Protection 

5 bolts (with fixed draws) to an anchor with fixed biners.