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 ADVANCED
(03) Wall of Dreams
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chai Tea S 
Crescent Moon S 
Flakes Don't Fail Me Now S 
Happy Crack T,TR 
Lost Boys T,S 
On the Edge S 
Sink or Swim S 
Stolen Dreams S 
Time Bandits S 
Turquoise Classic Thunder T,TR 

Chai Tea 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Scott Halliday
Page Views: 137
Submitted By: Alexander Nees on Oct 31, 2007

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Description 

Reasonably fun line up a steep, smooth slab. Crux is right around the second bolt, although the mantle higher up gives some people trouble too. The rock is pretty good, but the shade and lack of traffic means there's a lot of lichen on this climb. A bit run out (on easy terrain) to the anchors.

Location 

The only boltline on the left side of the large, prominent detached flake (see beta photo). This is one of the only climbs on the New Side that gets morning sun and afternoon shade. A good cool-down on hot days. Rap off the anchor to get down.

Protection 

5 bolts to a 2-bolt rap anchor that is shared with "Time Bandits." The anchor is WAY back there, so far that it's not really practical to try and get the anchor over the lip of the climb. Just use two single-length runners on the bolts and call it good.


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