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The Chadbourne Crag is a series of steep, pocketed limestone caves in upper Neff's Canyon. Developed in 1996 by Chad Zurinshas et al, the crag contains a couple dozen routes ranging from 5.10a to 5.13c. It's known for two things: the arduous approach and suspect rock quality, both of which are pretty much true. It's about an hour's hike from the parking lot, and while some routes consist of stone rivaling the best of American Fork Canyon, others are choss-fests resembling the worst of Hellgate. A few gems have emerged in the pocketed caves, though, most in the mid-5.12 range.
First, make your way to the Neff's Canyon parking lot:
6 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Chadbourne Crag:
Feature Attraction 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Sport, 60'
No Man's Land 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b Sport, 60'
Slice of Pie 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b Sport, 50'
Featured Route For Chadbourne Crag
Slice of Pie 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Chadbourne Crag
Another excellent line tackling the second cave uphill from the main trail. Start below the obvious flake on the right side of the cave on crimpers, then traverse the juggy flake. Clip the third bolt, then commit to a series of mail slots and thrilling two-finger pockets to jugs at the top of the cave. Joins Beam and Coke (5.12d) at the third bolt. For me, the crux was just getting to the chains; it's thin above the last bolt....[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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