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Chadbourne Crag

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beam and Coke S 
Feature Attraction S 
Gray Boy S 
Half Cab S 
Inconthievable S 
Little Buddy S 
No Man's Land S 
Piston Bully S 
Point Man S 
Slice of Pie S 
Tenacious Z S 
Vagrant Circle S 

Chadbourne Crag  

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,600'
Location: 40.6569, -111.754 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,912
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Alec on Aug 11, 2009
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The Chadbourne Crag is a series of steep, pocketed limestone caves in upper Neff's Canyon. Developed in 1996 by Chad Zurinshas et al, the crag contains a couple dozen routes ranging from 5.10a to 5.13c. It's known for two things: the arduous approach and suspect rock quality, both of which are pretty much true. It's about an hour's hike from the parking lot, and while some routes consist of stone rivaling the best of American Fork Canyon, others are choss-fests resembling the worst of Hellgate. A few gems have emerged in the pocketed caves, though, most in the mid-5.12 range.

This is an excellent location for mid-summer sport climbing as it is a west-facing crag a couple thousand feet above the valley floor. Most of the lower-angled routes are quite chossy, and like Hellgate, helmets are highly recommended for belayers.

Getting There 

First, make your way to the Neff's Canyon parking lot:

Take 3300 South or 3900 South to Mill Creek Canyon Road. At the four-way intersection, take a right onto Park View Drive. Follow this uphill until Park Terrace Drive on the left, then up to White Way on the right. Drive to the end of the road and park.

Take the wide Neff's Canyon trail 3/4 of a mile to the stream(bed). Stay left here and cross further upstream in a grove of Maple trees. Stay right after the flat area on a well-defined trail, climbing gradually until a slight downhill section. There will be a side trail on the right, then a small limestone boulder on the left soon afterwards. Turn right at the boulder onto a steep trail. This winds up a hillside, switchbacking up to a ridge. Follow the ridge up and eventually you'll see the limestone caves.
Plan an hour for the approach.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.2 miles from here

12 Total Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Chadbourne Crag:
Feature Attraction   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 60'   
Point Man   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 60'   
Vagrant Circle   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 50'   
No Man's Land   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 60'   
Half Cab   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 80'   
Slice of Pie   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 50'   
Piston Bully   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 70'   
Beam and Coke   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Classics in Chadbourne Crag

Featured Route For Chadbourne Crag
Chris figuring out a sequence to the chains

Slice of Pie 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Chadbourne Crag
Another excellent line tackling the second cave uphill from the main trail. Start below the obvious flake on the right side of the cave on crimpers, then traverse the juggy flake. Clip the third bolt, then commit to a series of mail slots and thrilling two-finger pockets to jugs at the top of the cave. Joins Beam and Coke (5.12d) at the third bolt. For me, the crux was just getting to the chains; it's thin above the last bolt....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Comments on Chadbourne Crag Add Comment
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By sfotex
From: Sandy, UT
Aug 28, 2011
For you all that have a GPS unit or smartphone with GPS,
The turnoff off the main trail is at:
N40 40.325'
W111 45.995'

The crag itself is at:
N40 40.115'
W111 45.621'
By Marley Nelson
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Nov 12, 2013
My favorite 5.12's are up here. I would highly recommend going if you are getting 12's in a few goes, It sucks to project up here because of long hike(if your a gym rat) but totally worth a few day trips!
By Halley13
From: Longmont, CO
Jun 25, 2014
I absolutely LOVE this piece of stone! Though somewhat slightly chossy, the climbing it creates is a blast. It's a beautiful hike, it's much cooler in the hot summer, and you can't help but have a great time. Get your thug on!!!