All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Neff's Canyon

Chadbourne Crag Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Chadbourne Crag

L › R R › L A › Z

	Beam and Coke S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Benson bolts S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Clam, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Feature Attraction S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Four Deep In The Hoopti S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Gray Boy S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Half Cab S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Inconthievable S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Little Buddy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	No Man's Land S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Piston Bully S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Point Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Slice of Pie S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Tenacious Z S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Vagrant Circle S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Explore this area in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	8,600 ft
GPS:	40.66905, -111.76072 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	21,499 total · 120/month
Shared By:	Alec L on Aug 10, 2009
Admins:	Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Description

The Chadbourne Crag is a series of steep, pocketed limestone caves in upper Neff's Canyon. Developed in 1996 by Chad Zurinshas et al, the crag contains a couple dozen routes ranging from 5.10a to 5.13c. It's known for two things: the arduous approach and suspect rock quality, both of which are pretty much true. It's about an hour's hike from the parking lot, and while some routes consist of stone rivaling the best of American Fork Canyon, others are choss-fests resembling the worst of Hellgate. A few gems have emerged in the pocketed caves, though, most in the mid-5.12 range.

This is an excellent location for mid-summer sport climbing as it is a west-facing crag a couple thousand feet above the valley floor. Most of the lower-angled routes are quite chossy, and like Hellgate, helmets are highly recommended for belayers.

Getting There

First, make your way to the Neff's Canyon parking lot:

Take 3300 South or 3900 South to Mill Creek Canyon Road. At the four-way intersection, take a right onto Park View Drive. Follow this uphill until Park Terrace Drive on the left, then up to White Way on the right. Drive to the end of the road and park.

Take the wide Neff's Canyon trail 3/4 of a mile to the stream(bed). Stay left here and cross further upstream in a grove of Maple trees. Stay right after the flat area on a well-defined trail, climbing gradually until a slight downhill section. There will be a side trail on the right, then a small limestone boulder on the left soon afterwards. Turn right at the boulder onto a steep trail. This winds up a hillside, switchbacking up to a ridge. Follow the ridge up and eventually you'll see the limestone caves.
Plan an hour for the approach.

15 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location:	Chadbourne Crag Change
Type:	to Trad Sport Toprope
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:	then:

Classic Climbing Routes at Chadbourne Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 26 ● Feature Attraction Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 12 ● Vagrant Circle Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a 12 ● Half Cab Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 16 ● Slice of Pie Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 8 ● No Man's Land Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 19 ● Piston Bully Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 10 ● The Clam Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b 10 ● Beam and Coke Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b 5 ● Gray Boy Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 5 ● Tenacious Z Sport