Start in small corner/crack, pull over bulge and clip bolt. Pull up and get feet established on flake, then make a few committing, balancy moves to gain the positive rail beneath the small diamond shaped corner. There is an old fixed pin off to the left that can be clipped from here. Gain the mini corner, pull the bulge, then trend left up fun face moves past a bolt to the chains.
Note - the original finish trended out right across dirty, runout slabs towards the anchors of Comes in Quartz, etc.
1 bolt, gear to 2 inches.
|By Sherri Lewis|
From: Sequim, WA
Sep 13, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gaining that horizontal rail before clipping the piton can feel significantly stiffer than 5.8+ if you are closer to 5' tall than 6' tall. This move can be protected with RP's or micronuts--without them, a fall from the crux could be ugly because your last cam is at your feet when you make the move and there are ledges not far below.