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Ceuse

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Ceuse  


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Location: 44.4991, 5.9366 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 41,151
Administrators: Euan Cameron, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: LeeAB on Jan 7, 2009
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Morning light on the Ceuse massif.

Description 

Limestone... Duh, Amazing routes...Check, Longish approach...Yes. Can be crowded on weekends, but seclusion can be found if that is what you are after. Singular brilliant cliff band crowning a hilltop. Face curves from West to South to East so sun and shade can be had pretty much anytime you want, to cold or wet in the dead of winter, the top of the cliff is a ski slope. Summer follow the shade, late fall follow the sun. The cliff is divided into about 12 different sectures and each has its own character, some are lower angle and more boken, others sport stunning stripes of blue and orange, some are just plain huge and others quite dark and intimidating.

Great routes from 5.10 to as hard as you can climb. Single and multi pitch sport climbing. A rack of 15 or more draws and 70m rope will do on most routes, of note the guide book only mentions if routes are longer than 35m so if you have a 60m rope beware.

Because of the long approach many climber stash their rope, QD's, shoes and harnesses under the boulders at the cliff they plan on climbing at the next day or a favorite spot, and just hike up with clothes food and water. This has lead to problems in the States most notably with bouldering pads but at the time I visited it seemed like standard practice.

Getting There 

Make your way to Gap. Then head up the hill to Sigoyer and up D219 toward the hill top cliff. There is camping on the right, Les Guerins and a gite/auberge (mini hotel/bed and breakfast) on the left and finally parking at the Col Des Guerins at the end of the road.

Climbing Season



Weather station 30.5 miles from here

64 Total Routes

['4 Stars',26],['3 Stars',33],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',10],['5.11',14],['5.12',26],['5.13',13],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Ceuse:
La Javanaise   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 80'   Secture Demi Lune
Saint Georges Picos   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 80'   Secture Biograpie
La Petite Illusion   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 80'   Secture Berlin
Angel Dust   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 80'   Secture Demi Lune
Super Mickey   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 75'   Secture Cascade
Blocage Violent   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 70'   Secture Berlin
San John's Pecos   5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b     Sport, 80'   Secture Berlin
Le Privililege du Serpent   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 80'   Secture Cascade
Carte Blanche   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 80'   Secture Demi Lune
Les Colonnettes   5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c     Sport, 100'   Secture Biograpie
Browse More Classics in Ceuse

Featured Route For Ceuse
The incredible tufas of Les Collenettes.

Les Colonnettes 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c  Europe : France : ... : Secture Biograpie
When I was there a winch start past the first 2 bolts (I think it was 2) was considered legit and the route was 5.13a. The boulder problem bumps the grade up a bit even though it is not excedingly hard V6 or V7ish. Climb the long tuffa up the steep wall to its end. Continue up the overhanging face on pockets to the anchor. An extention has been done called The Black Bean and is 5.14- and a 70m pitch....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Ceuse Slideshow Add Photo
A colorful and motivational topo of the different sectors of Céüse. I had fun making it.
BETA PHOTO: A colorful and motivational topo of the different ...
Sommerfugl, Ceuse. Photo by Thomas Michalsen.
Sommerfugl, Ceuse. Photo by Thomas Michalsen.
Sunset on a summer night
Sunset on a summer night
Late afternoon light makes the grass glow golden near the Secteur Berlin.
Late afternoon light makes the grass glow golden n...
parking lot at the 'col de guerins'
parking lot at the 'col de guerins'
Ceuse massif overview
Ceuse massif overview
The popular slope-fest of Blocage Violent dances up the brilliant blue & black streaks.
The popular slope-fest of Blocage Violent dances u...
the fountain near the parking lot at the 'col de guerins'
the fountain near the parking lot at the 'col de g...
Hiking to the crag
Hiking to the crag
View from Gap as Céüse clears up after a summer evening thunderstorm.
View from Gap as Céüse clears up after a summer ev...
Ceuse at sunrise from lac de pelleautier
Ceuse at sunrise from lac de pelleautier

Comments on Ceuse Add Comment
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By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Jan 7, 2009
I visited with my wife (gf at the time) in the later part of October 2001 and we had great weather. Climbing in a t-shirt in the sun and a sweatshirt or jacket to belay. It rained one day while we were there and it happened to be on a rest day anyway so it was fine by me. I know that climbing can be good as early as May and even though it can be hot in summer you can always find shade though it may dictate what you can get on.

I would go back in a heartbeat and hopefully will at some point. Definitely worth a couple of weeks for the traveling climber.
By Ian G.
From: PDX, OR
Apr 20, 2009
If you stay at the gite, be sure to bring all the food you need as there isn't a real grocery store nearby (Monoprix anyone?).

Also...the approach. Stashing your gear is highly recommended. The approach to Ceuse has become the approach to which I judge all other approaches. It ain't no joke.

Ah yes, if you want to lighten your load, bring a few chlorine tabs for the waterfall water. I saw dudes just drinking it straight up, but my gf had the tabs, so...

Best sport climbing on earth...period.
By KevinM
Jun 30, 2011
Does anyone know the name of the gite at Ceuse? Thanks
By Zach Alberts
From: Gap, Hautes-Alpes, France
Feb 21, 2012
The Gite is called 'la grange aux loupes' (lagrangeauxloups.net ) The camping is called 'camping les guerins' (campinglesguerins.com/) We are also offering free camping on our land in a nearby village if you are intersted in exchanging some work--free camping
There are two parking possibilities to approach the cliff. The first is a small, newly paved parking lot just across from the gite. This accesses the less steep, but a little bit longer approach trail. The other is just a little higher the bigger parking at the 'col des guérins'. This accesses the steeper, more technical, shorter approach. There is a fountain near the parking lot at the 'col des guérins'. This water is really cold and good and well worth filling up your water bottles here. The locals have threatened to shut off the fountain because of climbers bathing and washing their dishes in it. As part of the international climbing community, let's make a good impression and only use this water source for drinking.

Ceuse is in a protected area, so camping anywhere in the vicinity besides the campground is illigal. Sleeping in your car at the col des guérins is also 'technically illigal', although it seems to be unenforced at the moment. Also be aware that there are no bathrooms at either of the parking areas nor at the cliff, so it is best to do your buissness beforehand...

Ceuse is one of the most beautiful climbing areas in the world, please help keep it that way and enjoy!
By Kate Hanniball
May 4, 2014
Does anyone know if you need a car to get to cause if you are staying at the gite? or is it close enough to walk? or is transportation available? Tghanks!
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Aug 9, 2014
One would walk from the gite