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Morning light on the Ceuse massif.
Description Limestone... Duh, Amazing routes...Check, Longish approach...Yes. Can be crowded on weekends, but seclusion can be found if that is what you are after. Singular brilliant cliff band crowning a hilltop. Face curves from West to South to East so sun and shade can be had pretty much anytime you want, to cold or wet in the dead of winter, the top of the cliff is a ski slope. Summer follow the shade, late fall follow the sun. The cliff is divided into about 12 different sectures and each has its own character, some are lower angle and more boken, others sport stunning stripes of blue and orange, some are just plain huge and others quite dark and intimidating.
Great routes from 5.10 to as hard as you can climb. Single and multi pitch sport climbing. A rack of 15 or more draws and 70m rope will do on most routes, of note the guide book only mentions if routes are longer than 35m so if you have a 60m rope beware.
Because of the long approach many climber stash their rope, QD's, shoes and harnesses under the boulders at the cliff they plan on climbing at the next day or a favorite spot, and just hike up with clothes food and water. This has lead to problems in the States most notably with bouldering pads but at the time I visited it seemed like standard practice.
Getting There Make your way to Gap. Then head up the hill to Sigoyer and up D219 toward the hill top cliff. There is camping on the right, Les Guerins and a gite/auberge (mini hotel/bed and breakfast) on the left and finally parking at the Col Des Guerins at the end of the road.
The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Ceuse:
Featured Route For Ceuse
Tenere 5.13a International : France : ... : Secture Cascade
Trundle up the steep wall on jugs past a few bolts. A big move at the top of the initial overhang is the first crux. Move up onto the headwall on some great pockets which end in a seamingly blank section of rock. A crimpy move gets you through the blankness and to better pockets leading up to a shelf below a roof. Rest as the anchors are just above but a third and final crux getting over the roof on slopers gaurds them.... [more] Browse More Classics in International
The popular slope-fest of Blocage Violent dances u...
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Sommerfugl, Ceuse. Photo by Thomas Michalsen.
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Late afternoon light makes the grass glow golden n...
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Ceuse massif overview
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Ceuse at sunrise from lac de pelleautier
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The views from Ceuse are amazing....Gap and the Ha...
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Hiking to the crag
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Sunset on a summer night
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keeping a watchful eye on gap and its environs....
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the fountain near the parking lot at the 'col de g...
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parking lot at the 'col de guerins'
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View from Gap as Céüse clears up after a summer ev...
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BETA PHOTO: A colorful and motivational topo of the different ...
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By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Jan 7, 2009
| I visited with my wife (gf at the time) in the later part of October 2001 and we had great weather. Climbing in a t-shirt in the sun and a sweatshirt or jacket to belay. It rained one day while we were there and it happened to be on a rest day anyway so it was fine by me. I know that climbing can be good as early as May and even though it can be hot in summer you can always find shade though it may dictate what you can get on.
I would go back in a heartbeat and hopefully will at some point. Definitely worth a couple of weeks for the traveling climber. |
By Ian G.
From: PDX, OR
Apr 20, 2009
| If you stay at the gite, be sure to bring all the food you need as there isn't a real grocery store nearby (Monoprix anyone?).
Also...the approach. Stashing your gear is highly recommended. The approach to Ceuse has become the approach to which I judge all other approaches. It ain't no joke.
Ah yes, if you want to lighten your load, bring a few chlorine tabs for the waterfall water. I saw dudes just drinking it straight up, but my gf had the tabs, so...
Best sport climbing on earth...period. |
By KevinM
Jun 30, 2011
| Does anyone know the name of the gite at Ceuse? Thanks |
By Zach@Céüse Mountain Adventures
From: Gap, Hautes-Alpes, France
Feb 21, 2012
| The Gite is called 'la grange aux loupes' (www.lagrangeauxloups.net ) The camping is called 'camping les guerins' (www.campinglesguerins.com/) Our apartment in Gap is also available for weekly rental during the climbing season. ( mountainproject.com/v/apartment-at-ceuse-for-rent-this-summe>>> )
There are two parking possibilities to approach the cliff. The first is a small, newly paved parking lot just across from the gite. This accesses the less steep, but a little bit longer approach trail. The other is just a little higher the bigger parking at the 'col des guérins'. This accesses the steeper, more technical, shorter approach. There is a fountain near the parking lot at the 'col des guérins'. This water is really cold and good and well worth filling up your water bottles here. The locals have threatened to shut off the fountain because of climbers bathing and washing their dishes in it. As part of the international climbing community, let's make a good impression and only use this water source for drinking.
Ceuse is in a protected area, so camping anywhere in the vicinity besides the campground is illigal. Sleeping in your car at the col des guérins is also 'technically illigal', although it seems to be unenforced at the moment. Also be aware that there are no bathrooms at either of the parking areas nor at the cliff, so it is best to do your buissness beforehand...
Ceuse is one of the most beautiful climbing areas in the world, please help keep it that way and enjoy! |
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