|Redgarden - S Buttress
There are a few cruxes to this route, one early as for C'est La Morte and then a few later. Presuming I found the correct line of least resistance, the route is 5.9 for "pitch one" and 5.9 for "pitch two." Buyer beware- the second pitch is not a well defined line and might be harder or dirty if you miss it.
As well, I am not describing the belay as we climbed the route without one- opting to go 70 meters on lead, and then 20 meters more simul-climbing to a gear belay just down and below the large Juniper tree on Lower Juniper Ledge, for a total of a 270' pitch + 30 feet to the tree after belaying.
Climb C'est La Morte, to the end of the thin crack of Whistle Stop, where 2 tightly spaced lost Arrow pitons are found. Clip these and continue climbing (or back them up and belay here?). Continue up a few more feet of thin crack and head up and right into a dark bulge. You will see an old ring-angle piton almost directly above you into the overhangs, perhaps 10 feet up. Climb up and right of these, passing a less-worthy Lost Arrow (don't clip unless you have a very long runner). From the position above the L.A., climb back up and left past the ring angle and clip that (long slings). Continue up and slightly left on dark rock with a few moves worthy of consideration, and then aiming to intercept the ramp of the Anthill route. This is somewhat runout, but mostly easy.
If you did not at any time yet belay, your partner is now certainly simul-climbing and you are most certainly runout, so find a belay or trust your partner and yourself.
Once on top of this climb, the obvious finishes are on Anthill, PA's Variation, or Archer-McLanahan.
This is listed as an F.A. as it is undocumented. However, the line is not a new climb- just an undocumented climb in existing territory- some almost never traveled, snd worthy of at least one trip up it.
Start as for C'est La Morte, and follow the route description.
A standard rack with lots of extra long slings and biners. After setting a belay on 3 pieces of gear, I was left with only one tricam and a few RPs left on mine, despite having run it out hard in spots.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Mar 28, 2010
The new Levin guidebook calls this "Alternate Finish" and rates the variation portion of it 5.8, PG-13.