This route was probably named this scary name because it was first climbed back when large protection was unavailable. With modern big gear one could sew it up if the climbing gear budget was big enough.
The large OW is visible from the schoolroom area and once at the base, you can really see how big it really is. My guess is that you will be frustratingly close to squeezing into the chimney. Close but no cigar.
Right side in, or left side in... that is always debatable. And I have had multiple climbing partners tell me that I do routes the "wrong way" 75% of the time.
On the Upper Waterfront. I usually will just scramble up the slabs just right of Disco Duck, but you can access the Upper Waterfront after some scrambling from the top of Paranoia Streak.
It starts in the big crack just behind the pillar that leans out and right.
Big cams. as in the Big Green Monster, the (new) #6 Camalot or the big green Friend. These will probably protect the crack decently well if you push it deep in there. (2 of these might be nice along with a #5 camalot)
We placed 2 #4 Big Bros. Mostly just because we had them and they needed to see some action. If you've got them, use them, if not you should still be fine.
The top section protects well with a single set and maybe some stoppers.
There is a bolted anchor with rap rings at the top of the route. you could also build a belay from the slung horn at the top. You need 2 ropes to get down.
Danny making off width look casual
|By john gilchrist|
From: sLC, utah
Sep 28, 2006
tried this route but didn't get very far. Got into the crack but would have liked to have something bigger than the bd now I have a reason to get the wild country. You can down climb most of it but instead of down climbing the whole thing i went east up the ramp to the tree that now has some of my webbing and rapped off. Deffintly will come bag for another try!!
|By Bill Bones|
Mar 10, 2007
Great route, that troy dude looks like a pounder on it though:)
From: Small Lake, UT
Nov 5, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The stem box above the OW section has some wild wild moves. From the base it looks like the cracks will take gear but they're so filled with bushes you're better off staying out of them. No matter which side you go in expect large amounts of grunting and a bunch of lost skin.