Certain Air 5.10b/c
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| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b/c [details] |
| FA: | John Godar, Susan Godar - 12/2010 |
| Submitted By: | John Godar on Dec 10, 2010 |
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Description This line climbs through the steep roofs just to the left of Horndog and tops out at the base of Upper Solar Slab. Good rock and good gear are found the entire way. It runs through the first two roofs then around the third, finishing on fun face climbing to the top. The exposed crux is the second roof.
Pitch 1 and 2 were originally done in two short pitches (one roof each pitch) to avoid rope drag but can easily be linked. Pitch 4 is also the original finish to Horndog.
Pitch 1-5.8-Climb crack on arete of formation then veer right onto varnished face and back into corner below roof. Climb out roof to ledge and belay or link with P2.
Pitch 2-10b/c-Climb steep roof. Belay below third roof.
Pitch 3-5.6-Climb right under third roof on giant knobs then over roof as soon as possible. Straight up to top.
Pitch 4-5.8-Climb crack to the left of obvious left-facing flake that starts near top of gulley.
Descent Rap Solar Slab Gulley with 1 rope.
Protection Thin to 4", long slings if you link P1,2. All natural anchors, no fixed gear on route.
By Xavier Wasiak
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 6, 2011
| Doing this route once, may be once too many. With the exception of the last pitch, which is marginally good, there are better options than this route. |
By smassey
From: CO
Feb 16, 2011
| I second Xavier. The route lives up to its name, with the potential for falling due to breaking rock a high possibility. The gear is adequate. If doing this route, my advice would be to end the third pitch at the obvious ledge, with the best anchor on the route. Rather than continuing to the top of the buttress to access the final Horndog crack, go up slightly off the ledge and traverse into the Horndog crack. A 60m will just make it to good anchor potential with proper use of runners. |
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