Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | JS, Jeff Traub, Sept. 2013 |
Page Views: | 955 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | John Steiger on Jul 31, 2014 |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
This is the left-most climb on the clean buttress left of Starstruck and the Minotaur routes. Although the first pitch is so-so (should clean up with more ascents), the second is a looker. Begin with steep face climbing past two bolts (5.9+) to gain easy broken cracks. Above diagonal left to a bolt marking the beginning of the next steep section. The bolt allows one to forego placing gear in suspect rock and protects moves (be circumspect) to a more solid, albeit very thin crack above -- think brass or steel nuts. Belay at chain anchors from a small ledge. This also is the recommended way to get to the money pitch of Old Habits, and can also serve as an approach to Mad Calf's crux pitch.
The second pitch steps right to a crack to gain the bolt-protected arête leading to the roofband right of the overhanging crack of Cost of Business. Work over the roofband and continue past a few more bolts to a ledge with chain anchors. Cersei ends here, but you can continue up Mad Calf by stepping left or the last pitch of Starstruck by stepping right.
The second pitch steps right to a crack to gain the bolt-protected arête leading to the roofband right of the overhanging crack of Cost of Business. Work over the roofband and continue past a few more bolts to a ledge with chain anchors. Cersei ends here, but you can continue up Mad Calf by stepping left or the last pitch of Starstruck by stepping right.
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