||Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA: ||Jason Haas, Jerry Bargo, and Tony Bubb, 10/6/07|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Autumn, when not closed or snowed in|
|Page Views: ||139|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Oct 7, 2007|
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An initial crux (5.9) comes right off the ground while you are fresh. Grab the crack on the left and a high crimp on the right and pull up the feet into a scrunch on poor holds. Get established, place gear and relax; the rest of the climb is pretty mellow and well protected.
Continue up cracks and flakes to the top of the buttress, and belay from gear or a tree.
To descend, the FA party scrambled Northward on ledges and flakes back to the ground.
About midway through the "Devil's Horns" area, while heading up the hill along the cliff base, you will encounter a protruding buttress about 3-4 meters wide, split by a prominent crack system. The bottom is an overhanging crux which is awkward and powerful, but over soon enough. The rock gives way quickly to pleasant and more mellow climbing.
A standard light rack to 2.5".