Cerberus 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Royal Robbins |
| Submitted By: | Andrew Gram on Jul 2, 2002 |
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Chad Berger on the crux moves of Cerberus. John Wa...
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Description This is one of the best routes in the Needles, and is a must do for any climber. The climbing is fantastic, the summit is very cool, and the simulrap is exhilarating.
From the gully between Tricouni Nail and Queen Pin, look for a few old fixed pins on a steep face. Climb past the drilled pins to a good stance on a shoulder. Sling the shoulder and move up and left towards a ring bolt, placing a medium stopper in a seam along the way to avoid a groudfall. Traverse right at the ringbolt to another bolt, and then fire for the top on good crystals.
The route is only half over on top. Belay the follower from the top. To rappel, toss one end of the rope off either side with the rope laying in between two of the horns. Take a deep breath, and make a counterweight rappel off opposite ends of the spire. The simulrappel or Needles rappel is pretty commonly used to descend from summits with no anhors in the Needles area, and this is one summit that seems to have been designed for this technique.
Protection Quickdraws for bolts and pins, long runner for a flake, medium stoppers.
The Famous Needles Rappel.
Chad Berger and John Wa...
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This is a photo that Paul Muehl had taken and prod...
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Almost ready to belay. Summer 2002
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Photos by Adam Almquist
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Misty day summit of Cerberus
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Leslie Hamilton photo, 1973.
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Will utilizes the one great stance on this route b...
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My buddy Vince, Vedauwoo crack lover, bags his fir...
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Initial moves
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Cool Shadows
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At the flake
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After the nut placement
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Simul-rapping off
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The top
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Climbing Cerberus. 30 May '10. Photo: Nate Erickso...
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BETA PHOTO: Cerberus Route with approximate location of the th...
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Brenda at the top of the Tricouni Nail. Great cli...
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Flying up Cerberus
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Ryan atop the Tricouni Nail after a misty rainy as...
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By Peter Gram
Administrator
From: Park City, UT
Feb 5, 2003
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This is one of my favorite routes in the Needles. The climbing is very fun, the protection is more than adequate, and the simul-rappel off the summit horns is classic. |
By wayniak
Jul 24, 2005
rating: 5.8
| Fun. Found it very open mid-late afternoon.Met a pair of climbers visiting from Japan. They drove over from the tower just to do this one route before heading back. |
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 17, 2006
rating: 5.8
| Great climb for sure! We climbed there last week (9-12-2006) and never saw any other climbers. Lots of tourists taking our photos though. =) The route has three pitons down low, the flake to sling, a nice crack perfect for a #9 BD wired stopper, a ring pin and a final bolt before the summit--nicely protected!
The summit perch is amazing and the simul-rap was a blast!! |
By Trad Nanny
Jul 22, 2007
| Favorite of my trip. As usual around here a little run out but the ring bolt half way up looks fairly new and would protect well. For the decent I lowered my second on the route side of the pin and then used him as my anchor to lower on the single strand down the other side with a 60m rope. |
By Bob Kryzer
From: Minnesota
Oct 31, 2007
| This route offers some great protection low on ther route to avoid ground falls, and some of the needles classic run outs near the top. Even has the best simul-rap in all of the black hills! Its totaly a classic! |
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Jul 15, 2008
| Flake half-way up nicely takes a blue TCU. What a summit! |
By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 5, 2011
rating: 5.8+
| If you're curious about the strength of that funky ring bolt/pin above the flake -- I ops tested it and the ring held quite well. Mental note for next time -- traverse right onto the shoulder from the ring pin. While I fell on lead at that spot a couple times, my wife climbed straight to the top with no problems at all. A truly great climb, as my wife reminded me several times this weekend :-) |
By Kevin Dahlstrom
From: Fort Worth, TX
Jul 21, 2012
| Fun, well protected route and neat summit but the climbing itself is pretty run-of-the-ordinary 5.8 face climbing. |
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