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Central

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Achean Pronouncement 
Amoeboid 
Anomaly 
Babyhorn 
Backporch 
Bear Canyon Bouldering 
Bear Creek Spire 
Box, The 
Bubble, The 
Bulge Boulder 
Der Freischutz 
Der Zerkle 
Dinosaur Rock 
Dobkin Rock 
Dreadnaught 
Dum 
Dwarf 
East Sentinel 
Elevated Boulder 
Fee 
Fi 
Fifth Flatiron 
Finger Flatiron 
Fist or Hippo Head, The 
Fo 
Fourth Flatiron 
Fourth Flatironette 
Front Porch 
Fum 
Gazebo 
Hammerhead 
Hand, The 
Hillbilly Rock 
Hobo, The 
Hourglass, The 
Last Flatironette 
Lost Porch 
Lost Sentinels 
Mallory Flatironette 
Medicine Man Boulder 
North Ridge (of Dinosaur Mountain)., The 
Northern Dinosaur Egg 
Overture 
Red Devil 
Regency, The 
Roof Rock 
Royal Arch 
Schmoe's Nose 
Shark's Fin 
Skunk Canyon 
South Ridge 
Southern Dinosaur Egg 
Square Rock 
Stonehenge 
Tangen Towers 
Two Move Rock 
Unicorn 
West Sentinel 
Yahman Boulder 

Central  


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Location: 39.9777, -105.29 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001
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BETA PHOTO: Added text identifying formations on Dinosaur Moun...

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  • Description 

    There are many rocks to explore in this area. In fact, this section of the Flatirions probably hosts the greatest number of distinct crags in the Flatirons. It is complex enough that even locals will get lost when climbing the more obscure crags here. The "Central" zone spans Bear Canyon arbitrarily to the Ironing Boards (just S. of the 3rd Flatiron). Those seeking solitude can find it here at the less-popular crags. Slabmongers can have many field days exploring the numerous mini Flatirons, and there's a lots of trad routes and even some sport routes among these rocks. There's even room for new routing. Have fun in this scenic setting.

    Getting There 

    The main starting points are from NCAR (at the terminus of Table Mesa) for rocks near Dinosaur Mt/Skunk Canyon or possibly Chautauqua (off Baseline near 9th Ave) for rocks near the Ironing Boards. See specific rock pages for directions.

    Access 

    Various of the Flatirons are closed for falcon nesting from Feb 1 up to July 31 and for bat nesting Apr 1 to Aug 31. Historically, some of these in this area have included Bear Creek Spire, Harmon Cave (bats), East Face of The Hand (bats), East Face of The Finger Flatiron (bats), East Face of Der Zerkle (bats), Dreadnaught, Achean Pronoucement, Skunk Canyon Ridge 2 & west, Sacred Cliffs, and possibly others.

    Mallory Cave is permanently closed to human use to reduce the chance of introducing white-nose syndrome.

    Please check with city of Boulder Open Space & Mountain Parks at 303-441-3440 before heading up there. Also, 303.441.4060 ext 420 & x 416 can provide information.

    Climbing Season



    Weather station 3.1 miles from here

    326 Total Routes

    ['4 Stars',17],['3 Stars',90],['2 Stars',126],['1 Star',86],['Bomb',7]
    ['<=5.6',109],['5.7',28],['5.8',20],['5.9',17],['5.10',36],['5.11',42],['5.12',16],['5.13',10],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',2],['V2-3',15],['V4-5',10],['V6-7',6],['V8-9',8],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

    The Classics

    Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Central:
    Afro Bush   V8 7B     Boulder, 16'   Bear Canyon Bouldering
    East Ridge   4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   Hammerhead
    Yodeling Moves   5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c     Trad, 3 pitches   Hammerhead
    Angel's Way   5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c     Trad, 8 pitches, 1200'   Skunk Canyon : Ridge 3 aka Angel's Way
    Stairway to Heaven   5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a     Trad, 6 pitches   Skunk Canyon : Ridge 1 aka Stairway to Hea...
    East Face/Royal Arch   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 2 pitches   Royal Arch
    What If You're Not?   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Der Zerkle
    Satan's Slab   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 8 pitches   Skunk Canyon : Ridge 2 aka Satan's Slab
    Tracks are for Kids   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Dinosaur Rock
    Touch Monkey   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Der Zerkle
    Hot if You're Not aka The Brown Eye Wall   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Der Zerkle
    Patience Face   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 115'   Dinosaur Rock
    Discipline   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   The Box
    The Shaft   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 90'   Dinosaur Rock
    Power Bulge   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Hand
    Cornucopia   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   The Box
    Ultrasaurus (aka Uber-Pwnage)   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   Dinosaur Rock
    Milk Bone   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Dinosaur Rock
    Five Year Plan aka Space Time Inversion   5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Backporch
    Jurassic Park   5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c     Sport, 5 pitches   Dinosaur Rock
    Browse More Classics in Central

    Featured Route For Central

    Yellow Christ 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  CO : Flatirons : ... : Square Rock
    Steep route (about -15 deg) on positive holds the whole way. Start on the huge lieback and dyno up to a L-facing flake. Move up to the killer jug, then right up the great finger crack. Now make a move out on the face to the right and finish up and left. Cool route. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

    Photos of Central Slideshow Add Photo
    Photo: Dave Fiorucci. <br />December 9, 2007.
    Photo: Dave Fiorucci.
    December 9, 2007.
    BETA PHOTO
    View of the Central Flatirons from NCAR trail.
    View of the Central Flatirons from NCAR trail.
    Sunrise lights up Dinosaur Mountain in the Central Flatirons every morning. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2005.
    Sunrise lights up Dinosaur Mountain in the Central...
    5, 4, 3, 2, 1.
    5, 4, 3, 2, 1.
    MAN does this stuff like to grow in the Flatirons!
    MAN does this stuff like to grow in the Flatirons!
    A morning hike out from Dinosaur Mountain to the Devil's Thumb Trailhead.
    A morning hike out from Dinosaur Mountain to the D...
    Avs Traverse, V12.
    Avs Traverse, V12.
    Walking from NCAR.
    Walking from NCAR.
    The approach trail to Skunk Canyon.
    The approach trail to Skunk Canyon.
    A slightly blurry, fun boulder problem.
    A slightly blurry, fun boulder problem.
    Flatirons.
    Flatirons.
    The entrance to Skunk Canyon in the fall is a yellow tunnel of Mountain Maple, Box Elder, Willow, and Poison Ivy in spots. The Creeping Barberry is an evergreen in the Holly (Mahonia) family and keeps its color year round. Photo by Tony Bubb, 10/06.
    The entrance to Skunk Canyon in the fall is a yell...
    2/7/2003 from near Foothills Parkway and Arapahoe (Eisenhower School)
    BETA PHOTO: 2/7/2003 from near Foothills Parkway and Arapahoe ...
    BH on new hb in Skunk Canyon.
    BH on new hb in Skunk Canyon.
    An October view of Dinosaur Mountain Crags from the Devil's Thumb Trailhead.
    An October view of Dinosaur Mountain Crags from th...
    Bouldering a new in Skunk Canyon.
    Bouldering a new in Skunk Canyon.
    Fun boulder problem.
    Fun boulder problem.
    Sun set into Bear Canyon.
    Sun set into Bear Canyon.
    Another fun boulder problem.
    Another fun boulder problem.

    Comments on Central Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jan 20, 2004
    I went for a hike in the Flatirons the other day and had a look at the route Watchmaker steady. It kinda looks like those holds were chiseled seeing as they don't look anything like any of the other features on the rock. Not only that but for a few body lengths the route looks very ladder like, and yet this route is not on the manufactured routes list. Is it natural?
    By Guy H.
    From: Fort Collins CO
    Dec 13, 2004
    Access to Shunk and Shadow Canyon will also be affected by the OSMP visitor plan. Please review the plan's details and phone/email the council members about your concerns.
    By ac
    Dec 13, 2004
    Guy- you are mistaken. Shadow and Skunk Canyon are not in the proposed HCA areas. The affected areas include Eldorado Mountain and the west side of Boulder/Green Mountains.

    See the map of the management zones (the HCAs colored green are the areas closed to off-trail use) at:

    ci.boulder.co.us/openspace/vis...
    By Guy H.
    From: Fort Collins CO
    Dec 14, 2004
    AC, I found the following comment in the pointer listed below.

    "Implement a permit system for climbs in lower Skunk Canyon and south of Shadow Canyon." pg15

    ci.boulder.co.us/openspace/vis...

    I am really not sure which areas would be affected by this permit system, or whether this document is part of the VMP.
    By Paul Glover
    Sep 7, 2009
    Someone recently ticked the hell out of Milk Bone. Giant, foot long ticks clearly visible from the trail. Overticking is super lame to begin with and draws attention to the crag and our scene which we need to keep super low key so we can keep this new-routing thing going. Someone has had their draws on this route for over a month now. Whoever it is please remove your draws so we don't attract negative flack from hikers or rangers. If you need to hang the draws it is easy to 4th class to the summit of Dino from the west and do a short rap off a giant flake to the anchors. And be cool to hikers no matter what retarded yum-yums they are.
    By Pinklebear
    Jul 24, 2010
    Two new applications have come in so far for the September 15 cycle (close of the deadline) for the Flatirons Fixed Hardware Review Committee. Others might come along in the next month or two, as well.

    Please go here to leave comments: flatironsclimbingcouncil.wordp...

    Date of the public meeting/vote to be announced in September.
    By Pinklebear
    Oct 12, 2010
    The Fixed Hardware Review Committee of the Flatirons Climbing Council will hold its public meeting Wednesday, October 20, at 6 p.m. at The Spot gym, Boulder, Colorado, to discuss and vote on applications for the autumn 2010 cycle. Anyone interested is invited to come participate and cast votes for the three proposals, which can be found here: flatironsclimbingcouncil.wordp...
    By Pinklebear
    Jun 24, 2011
    The Fixed Hardware Review Committee of the Flatirons Climbing Council will hold its public meeting Wednesday, July 6, at 7 p.m. at The Spot Gym, Boulder, Colorado, to discuss and vote on applications for the June 2011 cycle. Anyone interested is invited to come participate and cast votes for the three proposals (one of which is on Dinosaur Rock), which can be found here: flatironsclimbingcouncil.wordp....
    You can also leave comments on the proposed applications at the above link.