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Central Wall Rock Climbing
Routes in Central Wall
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Bookmark T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Eagle Buttress, Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Eagle Buttress, Right Side T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fallen Hero T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hourglass, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Lover's Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Roofer Madness T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
| Elevation: | 6,240 ft |
| GPS: |
38.8014, -120.13299 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 29,265 total · 137/month |
| Shared By: | Salamanizer Ski on Sep 14, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Details
ATTN CLIMBERS: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Description
Central wall is the wall between The East Wall and The Main Wall.
Here you will find Lover's Chimney, Bookmark, Roofer Madness, "Unknown Soldier" and other well known classics.
Please note that all routes between The Hourglass and Bookmark are closed due to peregrine nesting. The routes are closed April 1 through September 30 or until otherwise noted by the U.S. Forest Service – Eldorado National Forest.
Here you will find Lover's Chimney, Bookmark, Roofer Madness, "Unknown Soldier" and other well known classics.
Please note that all routes between The Hourglass and Bookmark are closed due to peregrine nesting. The routes are closed April 1 through September 30 or until otherwise noted by the U.S. Forest Service – Eldorado National Forest.
Classic Climbing Routes at Central Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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